Rocky Ruins
of Petra in Jordan
One of the Seven
Wonders of the World
Travelogue 36
Petra
is half-built, half-carved into the rock, and is surrounded by mountains
riddled with passages and gorges. It is one of the world's most famous archaeological
sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.
A famous archaeological site in
Jordan's southwestern desert dating to around 300 BC, Petra was the capital of
the Nabatean Kingdom. Accessed via a long narrow canyon, it contains tombs and
temples carved into pink sandstone cliffs. It is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, and
the country’s most famous tourist attraction. In this travelogue, I
recount with mixed feelings my experience of having visited it on an oppressively
hot and sunny day in May 2018.
Prelude
In a previous blog article (see here), I had narrated how I had
completed a sweep of all seven manmade modern Wonders of the World, beginning
with the Taj Mahal as far back as 1963, and ending with Chichen
Itza in April this year, giving brief descriptions of each. I
had also indicated that they would each be supported by more detailed articles
in later blogs. As it so happens, I have already posted such descriptive
articles in respect of the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China earlier
(see here, and here). My most recent article
(see here) relates to another of the seven
wonders, the great Inca citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru. In the present
travelogue, I address myself to the rocky ruins of Petra in Jordan, which
I visited on 10 May 2018 as part of my tour of Israel and neighboring Jordan.
Petra, known as the “Rose City” for its pink-hued
sandstone cliffs, is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world.
Located in southern Jordan (see map below), Petra is famed for its rock-cut
architecture, rich history, and stunning landscapes. Designated as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 1985 (see inscription below), Petra attracts tourists
from around the world eager to experience its ancient allure. This article
provides a peep into Petra’s history, geography, and tourist insights, along
with practical travel tips.
History
Petra was originally established around the 4th
century BCE by the Nabataeans, a group of Arab traders who flourished in this
region due to their strategic location on important trade routes between
Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean. The Nabataeans built Petra as their capital,
excelling in architecture, water management, and commerce. At its height, Petra
was a vibrant hub for trade, housing thousands of residents and visitors. The
city thrived until the 4th century CE, when changes in trade routes and a
series of earthquakes led to its decline. For centuries, Petra was largely
forgotten by the outside world until Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt
rediscovered it in 1812. Since then, Petra has fascinated archaeologists,
historians, and travelers alike.
Geography
Petra (see the detailed representation below) is
located in the Ma’an Governorate in southern Jordan, nestled in a basin among
towering sandstone mountains. Its geographical position provided natural
protection, and its impressive rock formations allowed the Nabataeans to carve
stunning structures directly into the cliffs. The landscape around Petra is
rugged and dramatic, featuring narrow gorges, deep valleys, and vibrant
red-hued rock. The Siq, a narrow canyon that serves as the main entrance
to Petra, is one of the most famous natural features in the world.
Tourist Information
Petra is open to visitors year-round, though the
best times to visit are during the cooler months between March and May and
September to November. The Jordanian government operates Petra as a protected
site, and the hefty entrance fees (about INR 12,000) are a source of revenue, at
least part of it being used for preservation efforts.
- Entrance
Fees: Prices vary based on
whether you are a day visitor or staying in Jordan overnight. Day visitors
pay around 90 JD, while overnight guests pay approximately 50 JD for a
single day.
- Visiting Hours: Petra opens at 6 am
during the summer and 6:30 am in winter. It closes around sunset.
How to Reach Petra
Amman, Jordan’s capital, is approximately 235
kilometers north of Petra. There are several ways to travel from Jordan’s
capital Amman to Petra:
1. By Car: Renting a car is one of the most convenient options. The drive from Amman to Petra takes about 3 hours via the Desert Highway (Highway 15).
2. By Bus: The JETT Bus Company offers a daily tourist bus from Amman to Petra, departing in the early morning and returning in the late afternoon. It’s a reliable and economical option.
3. By Taxi: Taxis can be hired from Amman, although it may be more expensive than other options. Agree on a fare beforehand if you choose this route.
4. Private Tours: Many tour companies in Amman offer guided day trips to Petra, which include transport, entry fees, and a guide.
Travel Tips
- Wear
Comfortable Shoes: Petra covers a vast area, and visitors typically walk long
distances while exploring the site.
- Bring
Water and Snacks: Staying hydrated is crucial, especially in the warmer
months. There are limited refreshment areas inside Petra.
- Consider
Hiring a Guide: To get the most out of your visit, hire a licensed guide
to explain the historical and architectural significance of each site.
- Visit
Early: Arriving early allows you to explore Petra before the crowds and
enjoy cooler temperatures.
- Petra by
Night: This event, held on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, lets
visitors experience the Treasury illuminated by thousands of
candles—a magical and unique experience (see picture below).
Exploring Petra’s Major Features
The Siq: This 1.2-kilometer gorge is the main entrance to Petra, with walls towering up to 80 meters (see picture below). Walking through the Siq is a thrilling experience, as the canyon twists and narrows before dramatically revealing Petra’s most famous structure, Al-Khazanah, the Treasury.
The Treasury (Al-Khazanah): Perhaps the most iconic symbols of Petra, the Treasury’s intricate façade is carved into the sandstone cliff. This 40-meter-high structure likely served as a royal tomb, though its exact purpose remains a mystery. Al-Khazanah is particularly stunning in the morning light. Below is a view of it in rather hazy light, partly showing up at the end of a long and expectant walk on the Siq.
The Street of Facades: This area (number 5 in the Petra map legend) features rows of tombs and other structures carved into the cliff walls. These facades (see picture below) represent some of Petra’s best-preserved rock-cut architecture.
The Royal Tombs: Located on the eastern cliff (see picture below), the Royal Tombs (7 to 12 in the Petra map legend) are an impressive series of elaborate tombs believed to be reserved for Petra’s elite. Each tomb has its unique architectural style and carvings.
The Great Temple: Thought to be a grand structure for public use, the Great Temple complex (see picture below) includes courtyards, a colonnaded street, and theater-like seating. It lies south of the Colonnaded Street (number 15 in the Petra map legend).
The Monastery (Ad Deir): The Monastery, located atop a steep ascent of around 800 steps (see picture below and number 24 in the Petra map legend), is one of the largest monuments in Petra. Its remote location and stunning views over the valley make it a must-see, especially during sunset. One of the most iconic monuments in the Petra Archaeological Park, Ad Deir is the second most commonly visited monument in Petra, after the Al-Khazanah or Treasury.
The High Place of Sacrifice: Situated on a mountaintop, the High Place of Sacrifice (see picture below and number 26 in the Petra map legend) offers panoramic views of Petra and the surrounding landscape. The trail leading up to it is challenging but rewarding.
- Petra
Archaeological Museum: This impressive
museum (see picture below), located near the visitors’ center, showcases
artifacts from Petra and provides insights into the history and culture of
the Nabataeans.
- Local
Souvenirs: The
markets around Petra offer traditional Jordanian handicrafts, jewelry, and
souvenirs. Buying locally supports the community and helps preserve the
craft traditions of the Bedouins who have lived in Petra for generations.
My Day at Petra
Let me now recount my experience of
visiting Petra under far from memorable circumstances as part of a poorly
managed tour. The visit had been scheduled for the last day of a ten-day
combined trip to Israel and Jordan in which I was one of about thirty tourists
from Bangalore, India. The fact that we were to see one of the seven wonders of
the world had gone largely unappreciated. On the penultimate day, we had a
raucous party at a desert resort in Wadi Rum in southern Jordan lasting well
into the night. So, when we left for Petra the following morning on a northward
journey of over two hours, we were already late on what was expected to be a
hot day.
After about an hour of the bus journey through
the desert, our tour guide learnt that one of the young lady tourists had
‘lost’ her apparently expensive diamond (!) ring back at the desert resort, and
had no alternative but to back track when he was told that the ring had indeed
been found, waiting to be claimed by the owner! This meant an additional two
hours on the desert journey, wholly avoidable but for the carelessness of one
individual who, adding insult to injury, was also least contrite.
When we arrived at the impressive visitors’ center
at Petra (see picture below), it was close to noon time, and the Sun was
beating down hard on an oppressively hot day.
Nearby (see picture below) is a bilingual plaque
describing the monument.
Those of us who felt strong enough to walk up to
the Monastery were thwarted from trying when our guide told us that we had a really
long journey ahead of us, all the way to Amman, the Capital of Jordan. Thus, we had to be content with only a part
of the wonder that was Petra, all because of one person’s callous carelessness
in the morning.
Conclusion
Petra is a striking blend of nature’s handiwork and
human ingenuity. From its rich history to its stunning rock-carved
architecture, Petra offers visitors a chance to experience a world that feels
both lost and timeless. Whether you’re hiking to the Monastery, marveling at
the Treasury, or simply taking in the landscape, Petra is an unforgettable
journey into the past. By planning ahead and respecting the site’s historical
significance, you can make the most of your visit to this extraordinary
destination.
Tailpiece
What
makes the two principal monuments at Petra standout is the fact that they are
carved into gigantic monolithic blocks of stone. When I reflected on this, my
memory went back to something similar and even more awe-inspiring (see picture below) at the
Ellora Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Aurangabad district of
Maharashtra state, India. The Kailasanatha temple, part of which
is seen in the picture, is the largest of the megalithic rock-cut temples at
the Ellora Caves and considered one of the most remarkable cave temples in the
world because of its size, architecture and intricate carvings in traditional
style. Sadly, this stupendous monument didn’t even make it to the pre-final 21-item
list of the wonders of the world. One wonders whether bias or neglect had any
say in the matter.
2 comments:
Anna, loved your blog on Petra. We were there right before the pandemic. Your narration is, as usual, a treat. Comparison to Ellora is thoughtful. I cannot comment on this because I have not visited Ajanta and Ellora caves. Your irritation with that careless co-travelled speaks volumes about your passion and submission to amazing travel experiences!
Lots of interesting info has been shared. Will look forward to read more about the wonders which we can find in our own country also🌝
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