Sunday, October 20, 2024


The Inca Citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru

One of the Seven Wonders of the World

Travelogue 35

 

The ancient ruins of Machu Picchu serve as a reminder that even the greatest civilizations will eventually fade away. Let us cherish the present while it lasts.

 Turn Right at Machu Picchu

Mark Adams

 

[Panoramic view of Machu Picchu – Courtesy Wikipedia]

 

The remote ancient Incan citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru, South America, is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, and the country’s most famous tourist attraction.  In this travelogue, I relive my memorable experience of having visited it in Jan 2019 as part of my tour of the continent.  

 

Prelude

In a previous blog article (see here), I had narrated how I had completed a sweep of all seven manmade modern Wonders of the World, beginning with the Taj Mahal as far back as 1963, and ending with Chichen Itza in April this year, giving brief descriptions of each.  I had also indicated that they would each be supported by more detailed articles in subsequent blogs. As it so happens, I have already posted such descriptive articles in respect of the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China earlier (see here, and here).  I now address myself to Machu Picchu in Peru in this travelogue.

Location

Situated at an altitude of about 2,500 meters in a place of great natural beauty, in the middle of a tropical mountain forest, the sanctuary of Machu Picchu is apparently the most amazing architectural achievement of the Inca Empire at its peak.  It is about 80 km northwest of the ancient city of Cusco (see map below), and sits on a ridge between the Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu mountains, overlooking the Urubamba River valley.  


Geography 

Machu Picchu’s location is both spectacular and strategic. Nestled high in the Andes, it is surrounded by lush, green peaks, with steep cliffs dropping into the river below. The region is part of the Amazon rainforest, which gives the site a tropical yet temperate climate. The elevation creates a microclimate where mornings are often misty, with clouds rising from the valley and breaking to reveal the grandeur of the site.

History

Machu Picchu was built in the 15th century, around 1450, during the reign of the Inca emperor Pachacuti. It is believed to have served as a royal estate or a religious site for Inca nobility. The site remained hidden from the outside world until American historian and explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered it in 1911. Since then, Machu Picchu has become a symbol of Incan civilization and an important reminder of pre-Columbian history. The citadel was never discovered by the Spanish conquistadors, which is why it is so well-preserved today.

Importance

Machu Picchu is not only one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world, but also a UNESCO World Heritage site, designated in 1983. It is considered one of the New Seven Wonders of the World due to its architectural significance and beauty. The site is an excellent example of the Inca’s sophisticated engineering, agriculture, and spiritual connection to nature. Terraces, irrigation systems, and stone structures demonstrate their ability to adapt to difficult terrains. Machu Picchu continues to attract scholars and researchers interested in Incan history, culture, and astronomy.

Its walls, terraces and gigantic ramps give the impression of having been sculpted into the rock escarpments, as if they were part of it. The natural setting, located on the eastern slope of the Andes, is part of the upper Amazon basin, which has a very varied flora and fauna. Most of the outlying buildings have been reconstructed in order to give visitors a better idea of how they originally appeared. By 1976, 30 percent of Machu Picchu had been restored and the restoration work still continues. The Incas built the establishment around 1450 AD but abandoned it a century later, at the time of the Spanish conquest. 

Tourist Information

Visiting Machu Picchu is a must-do item for travelers worldwide. The site is open year-round, though the best time to visit is during the dry season from May to September. The rainy season from November to March can make the trails slippery, but the crowds are thinner during this time. A typical visit allows tourists to explore the main parts of the citadel, including the Temple of the Sun, the Intihuatana stone (a ritual stone associated with astronomical observations), and the Room of the Three Windows. There are also more strenuous hikes, such as climbing Huayna Picchu or the Machu Picchu Mountain for panoramic views.

How to Reach Machu Picchu from Cusco 

There are several ways to reach Machu Picchu from Cusco, which itself can be reached easily by air service from the Peruvian capital Lima.

  1. Train: This is the most popular and comfortable option. The slow train journey takes about 3 to 4 hours from the town of Poroy (about 20 minutes from Cusco) or Ollantaytambo (a little further from Cusco). Trains, such as the Vistadome and the more luxurious Hiram Bingham service, offer stunning views of the Andean landscape, following the Urubamba River to Aguas Calientes, the town nearest to Machu Picchu.

  1. Hiking (Inca Trail): For adventure seekers, hiking the Inca Trail is an unforgettable experience. This typically 4-day trek takes travelers through beautiful mountain passes, cloud forests, and Inca ruins, culminating with a sunrise arrival at Machu Picchu’s Sun Gate. There are also shorter versions of the Inca Trail (2 days), but all require advance booking as permits are limited. A part of the Inca trail is captured in the picture below:

  1. Bus from Aguas Calientes: Once in the town of Aguas Calientes, visitors must take a 25-minute bus ride up a steep mountain road (see picture below) to reach the entrance of Machu Picchu. Alternatively, a strenuous hike from Aguas Calientes to the site is possible, but it takes about 1 to 2 hours.


 Travel Tips

  • Advance Booking: Tickets to Machu Picchu, especially for the Inca Trail and climbs up Huayna Picchu, sell out quickly. It’s recommended to book months in advance, especially during peak season (June to August).
  • Altitude Acclimatization: Cusco and Machu Picchu are at high altitudes, which can cause altitude sickness. It's worthwhile to spend a day or two acclimatizing in Cusco before heading to Machu Picchu. Staying hydrated and avoiding heavy meals may help.
  • What to Bring: Carry light clothing, sunscreen, insect repellent, and plenty of water. Layers are important as mornings can be cold and misty, but the weather warms up quickly.
  • Respect the Site: Machu Picchu is a protected site, and strict rules are in place to preserve its integrity, though not as strictly enforced. Stay on marked paths, and avoid climbing or touching the ancient structures.
  • Best Time to Visit: Early morning visits offer quieter, more intimate experiences and are less likely to coincide with crowds. Alternatively, late afternoon also offers fewer tourists and softer lighting for photography.

The Journey

I was part of a tourist group of about thirty originating from Bangalore on a sightseeing trip to several south American countries including Peru. We had flown to Cusco from the Peruvian capital of Lima, with a whole day set apart for the visit to Machu Picchu. Though only about 80 km from the ancient Peruvian city of Cusco, it was a long winding journey to Machu Picchu in the Peruvian Andes, first by train up to Aguas Calientes from where another segment of the journey is performed by smaller trams, and then by road right up to the base camp.  

Here are two spectacular views through the glass covered roof and sides of the tourist train which we boarded at Ollantaytambo station (see below).


Below is a picture of me basking in the bright sun and lush greenery after alighting at Aguas Calientes for a short wait before journeying on to Machu Picchu.

Arrival

The picture below shows the main entrance to Machu Picchu and the arrival spot for buses from Aguas Calientes.  Those without advance booking can also purchase tickets here if available on demand. 

From here on, it is a short but steep climb (see picture below) to reach the heights of Machu Picchu for a wonderful panoramic view as captured in the lead picture to this article.

Below are two photographs of me in obvious triumph and delight at reaching this picturesque spot after a strenuous climb up a narrow and steep rock-hewn pathway. Paradoxically, the second one was taken in bright sunshine and at a slightly different angle shortly after a light cloudburst; hence the umbrella still in my hand.

Here is another view in bright light, at yet another angle:

Exploring Machu Picchu

Below is a map of Machu Picchu showing some of the main attractions for a visitor, with their locations with respect to each other easy to make out:

What followed was over two hours of walking through the various parts of the site, exploring the intricate web of buildings and surrounding terrain. Below is a view of parts of the labyrinthine structures within the Machu Picchu complex: 

An eye-catching feature of Machu Picchu is the steep terraces used for farming activities. Here is a view I captured from a distance:


Incan Astronomy

Machu Picchu offers evidence that the Incans had made significant progress in observational astronomy. Its design reflects a sophisticated knowledge of celestial events.

Sun Worship and Alignment: The Incas were Sun worshippers, and many structures at Machu Picchu are aligned with astronomical phenomena, particularly the movements of the Sun. For example, the Intihuatana Stone (see picture below), often called the ‘Hitching Post of the Sun’, is believed to have served as a solar clock or calendar. During the solstices, the stone’s alignment tracks the Sun's position, and it is thought that the Incas used it to mark important agricultural dates.

Temple of the Sun: Another significant structure is the Temple of the Sun (including the semicircular structure in the picture below), where the windows are aligned to capture the sunlight during the solstices. On the June solstice, sunlight passes through one of the temple's windows and illuminates a specific stone inside, signifying the change in season. This demonstrates the Incas’ ability to incorporate astronomy into their architecture.

The sculpture (see picture below)  projecting from the rock bottom of the Sun temple is interpreted as "Water mirrors for observing the sky".

The Incas used Machu Picchu’s high-altitude location to observe the stars and other celestial bodies. They carefully studied the movements of the planets, stars, and the Milky Way, which they considered sacred. The constellation of the Southern Cross, for example, played a key role in their perception of cosmology.

Machu Picchu’s design is a testament to the Inca's considerable astronomical knowledge, blending their religious beliefs with the practicalities of agriculture and timekeeping through the observation of celestial events.

Temple of the three windows: This is one of the most iconic structures at Machu Picchu. It gets its name from the three large windows that overlook the eastern section of the site (see picture below). These windows provide a stunning view of the surrounding mountains and valleys.


Here is my closeup picture of the middle window and the view through it:

The temple is believed to have had religious or ceremonial importance, possibly related to the Incan Sun God, Inti. The windows may have symbolized important aspects of Incan cosmology, such as the three realms of existence: the sky, the earth, and the underworld.

The construction of the temple, like much of Machu Picchu, demonstrates the incredible precision of Incan masonry, with massive stones carefully cut and fitted together without mortar. The structure highlights the architectural and astronomical knowledge of the Incas.

Temple of the Condor: The Temple of the Condor in Machu Picchu (see my picture below) is a breathtaking example of Inca stonemasonry. A natural rock formation began to take shape millions of years ago and the Inca skilfully shaped the rock into the outspread wings of a condor in flight. On the floor of the temple (see the foreground in the picture) is a rock carved in the shape of the condor's head and neck feathers, completing the figure of a three-dimensional bird.

Royal Tomb: This cave-like area (see picture below) of Machu Picchu contains ceremonial niches and an Inca cross carved from one wall and is adjacent to the Temple of the Sun.

Return Journey

The return journey was disrupted by a huge down pour lasting well over an hour and we were stranded close to the railway station (see picture below). It was lucky that this did not happen on the outward journey. But for this, our return journey to Cusco was uneventful.


Conclusion

Machu Picchu is a place that blends nature, history, spiritual connection and civilizational impact, making it one of the most awe-inspiring destinations in the world. Whether through a scenic train journey or a challenging trek, visiting Machu Picchu is a transformative experience for any traveler. The visit to Machu Picchu left a lasting impression on me, next only to the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China, as a truly great wonder of the world, fully deserving the accolade. 

Tailpiece

There were two sisters in our tour group with strong physical similarities and the rest of us started referring to them fondly as Machu and Picchu without their knowledge, their real names almost forgotten. The day before our visit to Machu Picchu, Machu had taken ill and preferred to rest in the hotel, Picchu also staying back to provide comfort and care.  By the time we reached the entrance gate to Machu Picchu, Machu was in no condition to climb up to the site of the ruins, and Picchu too opted to stay back to tend to her sister. So did a few others in the group who were either too tired or not sufficiently motivated to continue on. I had no reason not to, for Machu Picchu was the very raison d'être for my trip to South America.  It is a great pity they had to miss out on what was anticipated to be the pièce de résistance of our entire South American trip.