Rocky Ruins of Petra in Jordan

One of the Seven Wonders of the World

Travelogue 36

Petra is half-built, half-carved into the rock, and is surrounded by mountains riddled with passages and gorges. It is one of the world's most famous archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.

A famous archaeological site in Jordan's southwestern desert dating to around 300 BC, Petra was the capital of the Nabatean Kingdom. Accessed via a long narrow canyon, it contains tombs and temples carved into pink sandstone cliffs. It is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, and the country’s most famous tourist attraction.  In this travelogue, I recount with mixed feelings my experience of having visited it on an oppressively hot and sunny day in May 2018.  

Prelude

In a previous blog article (see here), I had narrated how I had completed a sweep of all seven manmade modern Wonders of the World, beginning with the Taj Mahal as far back as 1963, and ending with Chichen Itza in April this year, giving brief descriptions of each.  I had also indicated that they would each be supported by more detailed articles in later blogs. As it so happens, I have already posted such descriptive articles in respect of the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China earlier (see here, and here).  My most recent article (see here) relates to another of the seven wonders, the great Inca citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru. In the present travelogue, I address myself to the rocky ruins of Petra in Jordan, which I visited on 10 May 2018 as part of my tour of Israel and neighboring Jordan.

Petra, known as the “Rose City” for its pink-hued sandstone cliffs, is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world. Located in southern Jordan (see map below), Petra is famed for its rock-cut architecture, rich history, and stunning landscapes. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985 (see inscription below), Petra attracts tourists from around the world eager to experience its ancient allure. This article provides a peep into Petra’s history, geography, and tourist insights, along with practical travel tips.

History

Petra was originally established around the 4th century BCE by the Nabataeans, a group of Arab traders who flourished in this region due to their strategic location on important trade routes between Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean. The Nabataeans built Petra as their capital, excelling in architecture, water management, and commerce. At its height, Petra was a vibrant hub for trade, housing thousands of residents and visitors. The city thrived until the 4th century CE, when changes in trade routes and a series of earthquakes led to its decline. For centuries, Petra was largely forgotten by the outside world until Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt rediscovered it in 1812. Since then, Petra has fascinated archaeologists, historians, and travelers alike.

Geography

Petra (see the detailed representation below) is located in the Ma’an Governorate in southern Jordan, nestled in a basin among towering sandstone mountains. Its geographical position provided natural protection, and its impressive rock formations allowed the Nabataeans to carve stunning structures directly into the cliffs. The landscape around Petra is rugged and dramatic, featuring narrow gorges, deep valleys, and vibrant red-hued rock. The Siq, a narrow canyon that serves as the main entrance to Petra, is one of the most famous natural features in the world.

Petra site map (left) with legend at upper right.

(A part of it from the entry gate is shown enlarged in lower right)

Tourist Information

Petra is open to visitors year-round, though the best times to visit are during the cooler months between March and May and September to November. The Jordanian government operates Petra as a protected site, and the hefty entrance fees (about INR 12,000) are a source of revenue, at least part of it being used for preservation efforts.

• Entrance Fees: Prices vary based on whether you are a day visitor or staying in Jordan overnight. Day visitors pay around 90 JD, while overnight guests pay approximately 50 JD for a single day.
• Visiting Hours: Petra opens at 6 am during the summer and 6:30 am in winter. It closes around sunset.

How to Reach Petra

Amman, Jordan’s capital, is approximately 235 kilometers north of Petra. There are several ways to travel from Jordan’s capital Amman to Petra:

1. By Car: Renting a car is one of the most convenient options. The drive from Amman to Petra takes about 3 hours via the Desert Highway (Highway 15).

2. By Bus: The JETT Bus Company offers a daily tourist bus from Amman to Petra, departing in the early morning and returning in the late afternoon. It’s a reliable and economical option.

3. By Taxi: Taxis can be hired from Amman, although it may be more expensive than other options. Agree on a fare beforehand if you choose this route.

4. Private Tours: Many tour companies in Amman offer guided day trips to Petra, which include transport, entry fees, and a guide.

Travel Tips

• Wear Comfortable Shoes: Petra covers a vast area, and visitors typically walk long distances while exploring the site.
• Bring Water and Snacks: Staying hydrated is crucial, especially in the warmer months. There are limited refreshment areas inside Petra.
• Consider Hiring a Guide: To get the most out of your visit, hire a licensed guide to explain the historical and architectural significance of each site.
• Visit Early: Arriving early allows you to explore Petra before the crowds and enjoy cooler temperatures.
• Petra by Night: This event, held on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, lets visitors experience the Treasury illuminated by thousands of candles—a magical and unique experience (see picture below).

Exploring Petra’s Major Features

The Siq: This 1.2-kilometer gorge is the main entrance to Petra, with walls towering up to 80 meters (see picture below). Walking through the Siq is a thrilling experience, as the canyon twists and narrows before dramatically revealing Petra’s most famous structure, Al-Khazanah, the Treasury.

The Treasury (Al-Khazanah): Perhaps the most iconic symbols of Petra, the Treasury’s intricate façade is carved into the sandstone cliff. This 40-meter-high structure likely served as a royal tomb, though its exact purpose remains a mystery. Al-Khazanah is particularly stunning in the morning light. Below is a view of it in rather hazy light, partly showing up at the end of a long and expectant walk on the Siq.

The Street of Facades: This area (number 5 in the Petra map legend) features rows of tombs and other structures carved into the cliff walls. These facades (see picture below) represent some of Petra’s best-preserved rock-cut architecture.

The Royal Tombs: Located on the eastern cliff (see picture below), the Royal Tombs (7 to 12 in the Petra map legend) are an impressive series of elaborate tombs believed to be reserved for Petra’s elite. Each tomb has its unique architectural style and carvings.

The Great Temple: Thought to be a grand structure for public use, the Great Temple complex (see picture below) includes courtyards, a colonnaded street, and theater-like seating. It lies south of the Colonnaded Street (number 15 in the Petra map legend).

The Monastery (Ad Deir): The Monastery, located atop a steep ascent of around 800 steps (see picture below and number 24 in the Petra map legend), is one of the largest monuments in Petra. Its remote location and stunning views over the valley make it a must-see, especially during sunset. One of the most iconic monuments in the Petra Archaeological Park, Ad Deir is the second most commonly visited monument in Petra, after the Al-Khazanah or Treasury.

The High Place of Sacrifice: Situated on a mountaintop, the High Place of Sacrifice (see picture below and number 26 in the Petra map legend) offers panoramic views of Petra and the surrounding landscape. The trail leading up to it is challenging but rewarding.

Other Features

• Petra Archaeological Museum: This impressive museum (see picture below), located near the visitors’ center, showcases artifacts from Petra and provides insights into the history and culture of the Nabataeans.

• Local Souvenirs: The markets around Petra offer traditional Jordanian handicrafts, jewelry, and souvenirs. Buying locally supports the community and helps preserve the craft traditions of the Bedouins who have lived in Petra for generations.

My Day at Petra

Let me now recount my experience of visiting Petra under far from memorable circumstances as part of a poorly managed tour. The visit had been scheduled for the last day of a ten-day combined trip to Israel and Jordan in which I was one of about thirty tourists from Bangalore, India. The fact that we were to see one of the seven wonders of the world had gone largely unappreciated. On the penultimate day, we had a raucous party at a desert resort in Wadi Rum in southern Jordan lasting well into the night. So, when we left for Petra the following morning on a northward journey of over two hours, we were already late on what was expected to be a hot day.

After about an hour of the bus journey through the desert, our tour guide learnt that one of the young lady tourists had ‘lost’ her apparently expensive diamond (!) ring back at the desert resort, and had no alternative but to back track when he was told that the ring had indeed been found, waiting to be claimed by the owner! This meant an additional two hours on the desert journey, wholly avoidable but for the carelessness of one individual who, adding insult to injury, was also least contrite.

When we arrived at the impressive visitors’ center at Petra (see picture below), it was close to noon time, and the Sun was beating down hard on an oppressively hot day.

After passing through the entrance, we had to trek some considerable distance in harsh open desolate terrain (see picture below) before reaching the comparative comfort of the nearly 2 km walk through the narrow pathway called the Siq lying between towering cliffs, with little respite from the heat of the Sun blazing overhead. One could mitigate this by hiring a horse drawn vehicle, but at a substantial additional cost, and only for part of the journey.

The journey through the Siq was exciting, with plenty of photo opportunities to capture the towering natural formations in exciting colors.  Below are just two of numerous such views I captured:

It was quite some time before we could get a face-on glimpse of the iconic Al-Khazanah at the end of the gorge (see a previous picture).  Below is a memorable picture of me in front of the monument, recording my fortuitous presence before a pair of camels appropriate to the occasion:

The Al-Khazanah is a great monolithic structure carved into a huge rock formation (see the wide angle picture below).

Nearby (see picture below) is a bilingual plaque describing the monument.

The unbearably hot weather meant that most of us were exhausted by the time we reached the prime target of our visit, the Al-Khazana, with little energy left to go all the way up to the next one, the Monastery that was quite some distance further away. The best we could do was to explore the immediate neighborhood of the Al-Khazana.  Below is one such sight.

Those of us who felt strong enough to walk up to the Monastery were thwarted from trying when our guide told us that we had a really long journey ahead of us, all the way to Amman, the Capital of Jordan.  Thus, we had to be content with only a part of the wonder that was Petra, all because of one person’s callous carelessness in the morning.

Conclusion

Petra is a striking blend of nature’s handiwork and human ingenuity. From its rich history to its stunning rock-carved architecture, Petra offers visitors a chance to experience a world that feels both lost and timeless. Whether you’re hiking to the Monastery, marveling at the Treasury, or simply taking in the landscape, Petra is an unforgettable journey into the past. By planning ahead and respecting the site’s historical significance, you can make the most of your visit to this extraordinary destination.

Tailpiece

What makes the two principal monuments at Petra standout is the fact that they are carved into gigantic monolithic blocks of stone. When I reflected on this, my memory went back to something similar and even more awe-inspiring (see picture below) at the Ellora Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Aurangabad district of Maharashtra state, India.   The Kailasanatha temple, part of which is seen in the picture, is the largest of the megalithic rock-cut temples at the Ellora Caves and considered one of the most remarkable cave temples in the world because of its size, architecture and intricate carvings in traditional style. Sadly, this stupendous monument didn’t even make it to the pre-final 21-item list of the wonders of the world. One wonders whether bias or neglect had any say in the matter.