Angkor Wat of Cambodia
Largest (Hindu-Buddhist) Temple Complex in the World
Travelogue 31
“One of these temples, a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michelangelo, might take an honourable place beside our
most beautiful buildings. It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome, and presents a sad contrast to the state of
barbarism in which the nation is now plunged.”
Overview
All over the world, religious monuments take
pride of place. Indeed, most of the
greatest monuments in the ancient world are also religious monuments. Here are some of them that I have visited (in
no particular order): Prambanan, Yogyakarta, Indonesia; The Blue Mosque
and Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey; The
Brihadeeshwara Temple, Thanjavur, India; The Kailasanatha
Temple, Ellora, India; Christ the Redeemer Statue, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; Srirangam
Temple, Tiruchirapalli, India; Meenakshi
Temple, Madurai, India, Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto, Japan; The Luxor Temple, Luxor, Egypt.
But the largest and best of these, though not
in terms of quality of preservation, is Angkor Wat in Siem Reap,
Cambodia, the subject of this article. It is in fact the largest religious
monument in the whole world, a not too well-known fact because of its poor
quality of preservation as also because of its location, in one of the poorest
countries in the world, ruled for long by oppressive and totalitarian regimes.
Angkor Wat, literally
meaning ‘city temple’, was built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II (see picture
of bas relief below) in the twelfth century and dedicated to the Hindu deity
Vishnu. Its original name is not known
definitively, but could have been the Sanskrit name Vrah Visnuloka or Parama
Visnuloka. Khmer is an ancient
kingdom in Southeast Asia that reached the peak of its power in the 11th
century, when it ruled over the whole of the Mekong valley from its capital at
Angkor. It was representative of how far
Indosphere had reached southeast Asia. Both Sanskrit and Pali were influential
languages as in other southeast Asian countries.
Spread over a huge area of 402 acres (see
aerial view above), Angkor Wat is
the amalgamation of two basic design features of Khmer temple architecture:
the temple-mountain at
the heart and a galleried outer structure around it. It is designed to represent the
exalted Mount Meru, home of the devas (gods) in Hindu mythology. Within
a moat more than
5 kilometres long and an outer wall 3.6 kilometres long (see picture
below) are three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. At the
centre stands a quincunx (an arrangement of five objects with four
at the corners of a square or rectangle and the fifth at its centre) of towers as can be seen in the previous
aerial picture.
According to ancient Sanskrit
and Khmer texts, religious monuments must be organized in such a way that they
are in harmony with the universe, meaning that the structure should be planned to
accord with the rising sun and moon, in addition to symbolizing the recurrent
sequences of days, months and years. Angkor Wat seems to embody this
requirement.
The Journey
Although I had a general idea, the first time
I heard about the greatness of Angkor Wat was from my esteemed friend and
colleague Dr C Seshadri who recounted some highlights of his visit to Angkor
Wat and urged me to do so as well. It
was many years later that I could do so, as part of an extended trip that
included Cambodia and Thailand.
I reached Siem Reap, the second largest city
in Cambodia and the location of many of its greatest archaeological treasures, by
a flight via Singapore, on 9 Mar 2018. The airport was small (see
picture below), one of the smallest I have experienced anywhere, and visa could
be obtained on arrival. I didn’t have to
wait too long to get it.
The visit
The hotel manager readily fixed
up a full day tour of Angkor Wat and neighbouring attractions with a tuk-tuk
driver at a reasonable price, but payable only in US$, something that was the
norm where tourists were concerned because, as I discovered later, the
Cambodian currency was virtually worthless.
The driver could understand simple English and made himself understood
quite well mainly through monosyllables supported by sign language. Our first halt was at the ticket centre at
the outskirts of the city where I had to show my passport and purchase a full
day ticket, again paying in US$. Here is a picture of the beautiful building
where this was done:
Angkor Wat and
other ancient structures in Cambodia have suffered extensive damage and
deterioration by a combination of plant overgrowth, fungal attacks, advancing
forest, ground movements, vandalism, and theft, as is often the case with
ancient artifacts (Egyptian ones came particularly to my mind, after having
visited that country two years previously).
Restoration has received major attention and there have been extensive
efforts initiated by other countries such as France and India, besides an
international initiative spearheaded by UNESCO. One example of this was
immediately apparent at the western entrance through the causeway. It is a beautifully restored head of a naga
(mythical half-serpent half-human being) as can be seen in the picture below.
It stands in sharp contrast to the unrestored lion right next to it.
The poster below, displayed
prominently at the long ‘churning of the sea of milk’ (samudra manthana
in Sanskrit) gallery pictured in the next photograph, describes a major project
undertaken at one of the inner courtyards of Angkor Wat.
Inner Courtyard
After spending a considerable
amount of time at the outer parts of Angkor Wat, I moved to the inner courtyard
from the eastern side, with scattered sunlight still providing a good
view. Here is a picture of the layer on
which the quincunx of towers is located, with the two end towers visible. A wooden staircase provides part of the way
up, though it spoils the overall view of the otherwise distinctly ancient
architecture.
Climb to the top
Pictured below is a polite and
thoughtful way of reminding one of the amount of time one had to spend in the
normally crowded line to reach an intermediate platform on the way up to the
top. Rather ingeniously, the placement
of the guideposts could be changed depending on the density of people queued up
in the line!
Right in front of me in the line was a young lady from Viet Nam who caught my attention through her fluent English, and she became equally pleased with my way of speaking. Initially, she was mildly offended when I remarked that she looked like Chinese, but any cobwebs between us were swept away quickly through mutual candour. Indeed, we stuck up a very friendly conversation, talking about our experiences in Cambodia till then, about her life in Hanoi, about the remarkable recovery and economic progress Viet Nam had achieved after its wars in the last century, and generally about the travel experiences of each of us as tourists in recent times. What a shame I didn’t capture a selfie with her, something that could have been so appropriately posted here. Forty-five minutes didn’t feel like too long a time to have spent talking to her!
When I went up to the top layer on which the central tower stood, my attention was diverted by what appeared to me like a setting Sun near the western horizon (see at the top right of the picture below). I was rather taken aback since it was just about noon time then. When I looked at the object through my camera under full zoom, it revealed itself as just a hot air balloon, a close-up picture of which appears later. Incidentally, this picture shows the western gate to the vast inner courtyard, the outer one lying much farther away.
The following picture shows the much less crowded and comfortable return staircase, against the background of the central tower, after the visit to the top.
Angkor Wat was built as a Hindu
(Vishnu) temple when Hinduism was the dominant religion everywhere within the
Indosphere, influenced by great classics like Ramayana and Mahabharatha.
It was only later, after Buddhism took over as the dominant religion,
that it was slowly transformed into a Buddhist temple, even as it came under
the ravages of time coupled with sheer neglect. Buddhist religious practices were evident in
some parts of Angkor Wat, though on a modest scale. More in evidence was some sideshows of a cultural
nature designed to entertain visitors as well as to lighten their purses. Here is a picture at the end of one such sideshow,
a short dance performance in full costume:
Carvings of beautiful Apsaras (loosely translated as heavenly maidens), who have a major presence in ancient Indian mythologies, in widely differing costumes and sizes constitute the most visible part of the bas reliefs seen almost everywhere on the walls in Angkor Wat. Below are two prominent ones:
As I traced my reluctant journey back to where
I had started early that morning, with the Sun now nearly overhead, I took a head-on
look at the famous temple complex (see picture below, with the eastern side
towers well hidden behind the visible western side towers) from close quarters
and in finer detail this time, again marvelling at what was surely one of the
greatest monuments of any kind anywhere, certainly the greatest of the
religious variety.
As I moved out towards the western outer entrance, I could now see clearly the hot air balloon, much closer and clearer this time (see picture below). It appeared to be a tethered device, floating still, without any noticeable movement in any direction.
It was a long walk back to the parking area and to my tuk-tuk whose driver anticipated my arrival and was ready to take me to the next stop on the day’s journeys.
Later that evening, on my way back to the hotel, I passed by a beautiful building (see below) housing the National Museum of ancient artifacts of Angkor Wat and other historical sites of the city. Unfortunately, it was closed for the day and I had no further time at my disposal while I was in Siem Reap.
In 2007, Angkor
Wat was one of 21 finalists for the New Seven Wonders
of the World, but sadly did not make it to the seven winning sites which
turned out to be: The Taj Mahal in India, the Great Wall of
China, Machu Pichu in Peru, Petra in Jordan,
the Colosseum in Rome, Italy, the Statue of Christ the
Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and the Pyramid of Chichen
Itza in Mexico. In my view, Angkor Wat definitely deserved
to be one of the final seven. Incidentally, I have been able to visit all but
the last one of these. I hope to make up for the shortfall sometime
next year.
Adieu Angkor Wat
Thanks to timely interventions by the UNESCO,
and independent initiatives by many nations, Angkor Wat seems to be on its way
out of the endangered list of heritage sites the world over. I left the place with some sense of relief as
well as a great sense of wonder at how far and how deep the influence of
greater India in ancient times had penetrated.
As I write this, I look back upon an experience just last year, of viewing the remains of a small but beautiful Vishnu temple, perhaps matching Angkor Wat in its splendour, though nowhere near it in scale, at Awantipora, on the banks of river Jhelum near Srinagar in Kashmir. It is with immense sadness that I sign off this narrative with a picture of this edifice that has been one of the countless victims of intolerance and hatred down the ages in human history. The ruins are now well protected and maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India, with an armed guard in constant attendance!