Tuesday, December 3, 2024

 

Vijnaana Rasayathri

(ವಿಜ್ಞಾನ ರಸಯಾತ್ರಿ)

In memory of Popular Science Communicator

Prof J R Lakshmana Rao

 

Part I – Book Release Function

 

Nothing in science has any value to society if it is not communicated.  

- Anne Roe 

 

Prof J R Lakshmana Rao

His motto: “Develop scientific temper, humanism, as well as a rational and reformative attitude in life.”

The recent release of a voluminous publication titled ‘Vijnaana Rasayathri’ commemorates the life and work of the renowned popular science writer and communicator Prof J R Lakshmana Rao who had a profound influence on science communication in Kannada to all types of audiences, someone I had known intimately much of my professional career as a teacher educator.  In this the first part of a two-part article, I focus on the book release function that took place in Bangalore earlier last month.  In a later second part, I will attempt to review the publication for broader audiences and communicate its essence to non-Kannada knowing readers as well, drawing its contents largely from the publication on hand.

Prelude

It was with a deep sense of satisfaction that I received the following invitation a few weeks ago to a function I had been eagerly looking for and preparing myself to attend without fail despite some health concerns:

I had known the Maithri family siblings almost as long as I had known their parents and had been a fairly frequent visitor to their home located within easy walking distance of mine at Saraswathipuram in Mysore, a home appropriately named Maithri (friendliness) as well, a home that was the abode of a truly great and lovable personality whose manifold achievements in popularizing science through the Kannada language medium were legendary. Proclaiming a Gandhian-style simplicity in his dress code as well (see picture below), he was a readily recognizable figure anywhere, my own home included, though not as often as I would have liked to see him. Though formally known to most people as Professor J R Lakshmana Rao, it will be just ‘Prof JRL’, or even plain JRL, in the rest of my references to him.

I had the added pleasure of knowing Brinda and Anuradha, two of the Maithri sisters, as my students at the Regional Institute of Education which I had served as a (physical) science educator, a position that brought me in frequent contact with Prof JRL.

Here is a precious picture of the complete Maithri family I have known in the good old days, a happy family by all accounts, and truly at home, though not literally so:

Taken on his 90th birthday, this picture of JRL and family shows Vidya at upper left.
Rest of them don’t need to be identified.

When he passed away in 2017, just three years short of a century of productive life and memorable service to the society, Prof JRL left a huge legacy of achievements in various facets of science communication in Kannada, and the idea of commemorating them in some appropriate form would have naturally occurred to his flag bearers.  One of his ardent admirers, H L Satheesh, suggested to the Maithri family and friends that the best way to do this could be through the publication of a collection of selected writings by and about Prof JRL, encompassing the whole gamut of his life and work. This was an enormously challenging task, yet the Maithri group started working on it with the intention of bringing out the publication in time for JRL’s birth centenary, but this proved too formidable to complete as envisaged. Finally, after three more years of tireless toil, it happened… on 7th November this year, at the iconic Indian Institute of World Culture located in good old Bangalore, and in glorious weather. 

The Maithri group had the good fortune of getting the contents of the publication designed, organized and edited by another well-known Kannada science writer and contemporary of JRL, Dr T R Anantharamu* (see my picture below, taken at the release function).  The wonderfully evocative title of the work, Vijnaana Rasayathri, was the brainchild of the editor of the volume, Dr T R Anantharamu, and JRL would have loved every bit of it.

Editor Dr T R Anantharamu

[*He had undertaken a similarly challenging task when he teamed up with astrophysicist Dr B S Shylaja in editing Khagola Darshana, another encyclopaedic publication in Kannada, which was published last year. See here for my detailed article on the event and the work.]   

Apart from available pre-published writings, the Maithri group was successful in persuading a number of people connected with JRL, including me, to contribute articles and writeups specifically appropriate to the occasion. In a feeble attempt to bring out the human side of JRL, I am taking the liberty of including a slightly expanded version of my own writeup as the last section of this article.

The impressive audience gathered at the release venue got a chance to lay their hands on a beautiful and large 564-page quarter crown paper size volume pictured above, published by Maithri Baandhavaru, printed at Manipal Technologies Ltd, Manipal, and distributed by well-known Navakarnataka Publications Pvt Ltd, Bangalore.  Hopefully, it will soon end up in the hands of everyone who has a stake in popularizing science content through Kannada in the contemporary world dominated as much by science and technology as in the halcyon days of JRL.

The Release Function

As I walked into the impressive auditorium of the Institute of World Culture, I ran straight into the behind-the-scenes motivator of the whole enterprise, none other than my long-standing friend and former colleague, Satheesh himself! I have known him and his versatile abilities almost as long as I have known JRL.  He graciously escorted me into the assembly hall, introduced me to all the members of the maithri baandhavaru whom I was seeing after a long gap, and to the dignitaries who were to speak on the occasion. I did indeed need a bit of escorting that day! Busy bee Brinda soon called out everybody for the refreshments arranged in the corridors, and what a sumptuous and tasty food it turned out to be!  It was one of those occasions I would gladly allow myself a second helping! I didn’t need to eat any more that day!

Brinda and company started the function at 6:30 pm on the dot, reflecting the punctuality JRL always practiced and admired. After the traditional lighting of the lamp ceremony, and brief introductions, it was time for the formal launch of the long-awaited Vijnaana Rasayathri.  Though I could take a few pictures myself, the picture below, thoughtfully made available to me by Brinda, best captures the occasion as well as all the key players involved:

(l to r): Satheesh, Brinda, Vidya, Dr Guruprasad, Dr Ramakrishna, Dr Anantharamu,
Anil and Anuradha

Each of the three speakers of the day (see picture below) spoke at length about different facets of the life and work of Prof JRL, with their personal experiences and anecdotes thrown in liberally.

Dr Guruprasad, Dr Ramakrishna and Dr Anantharamu on the dais

As editor of the publication, Dr Anantharamu dwelt on the various challenges faced by him and the Maithri team in organizing and getting the contents ready for print, employing the latest technology suitable for a publication in Kannada liberally interspersed with English text, a few articles being entirely in English too. While alluding to the eventual title of the book, he jokingly said that at one point he had considered calling it ‘Lakshman Rekha’*, something that would have certainly offended a provenly democratic JRL!  

(*From an episode in the Hindu epic Ramayana in which Lord Rama’s brother Lakshmana is said to have marked out a line on the soil as a barrier to protect Rama’s wife Sita from evil intrusions while he was away searching for his brother in the woods)

Chief guest Dr Guruprasad, the present director of the Jawaharlal Nehru Planetarium in Bangalore and former ISRO scientist, narrated with several examples how he had been inspired in his contacts with JRL to take to writing science articles in Kannada, initially hesitantly, and later with the kind of confidence that JRL always admired in the people he had groomed.

In his presidential address, Dr Ramakrishna spoke about his frequent association and contacts with JRL and the Marxist ideology both had grown up with and subscribed to quite strongly, and relentlessly.  Citing several instances, he pointed out how JRL had stuck to such ideology in both thought and deed all through his life. 

A common thread in all three talks was how JRL had founded and nurtured several initiatives and institutions devoted to science communication and the inculcation of a scientific temper in all walks of his life and work.

Now a look at the rasayaathri that JRL was.

Life and Work of JRL

Here is a brief biographical sketch of Prof JRL:

(Abridged and adapted from https://jrlrao.blogspot.com/p/biography.html)

Born on 21 January 1921, JRL had his initial education in Jagalur, Chitradurga and Davanagere in the state of Karnataka. He did his Intermediate course in Yuvaraja‘s College, Mysore, and completed his BSc (Honours) and MSc in Chemistry from the Central College, Bangalore.

He started his teaching career in Tumkur. Later he taught in The Central College, Bangalore; Sahyadri College, Shivamogga; and in Maharani‘s and Yuvaraja‘s colleges, Mysore. He was a very popular teacher and a public speaker on the subject of science, popularization of science and environmental issues. He was known not only as an efficient and effective teacher of his chosen subject but also as a teacher who could convey the sense of wonder and enthusiasm to the students.

JRL was a voracious reader with a wide range of interests. His special interests were in general science, history of science, scientific biographies, philosophy, to name just a few. He was also well read in Music and Geography. He recalls that he got interested in reading from his mother.

JRL’s horizons were widened, particularly in popular science, by Kuvempu, the great poet laureate of Kannada literature, who taught him Kannada when he studied in Mysore. He recalls that Kuvempu talked of the then recently started Penguin and Pelican Pocket books, and that Kuvempu exhorted his students to read them to broaden their horizon. That, coupled with the reading habit developed in childhood, led to his having a large personal library.

This also gave him the urge to write popular science in Kannada. It was strengthened by his introduction to Marxist philosophy during his Central College days, which led him to believe strongly that every one of us receives a great deal more from society than we can ever hope to give back to it. And he had an urge to reduce that balance to the extent possible.

His decision to write popular science in Kannada was neither born out of an emotional love of the language just because it was his mother tongue nor a blind admiration of the achievements of science. It was, however, fueled by the conviction that scientific, objective, rational thinking and a scientific temper, were the most dependable means to solve the problems faced either by the individual or by society as a whole. He however, disliked the tag often attached to him – ‘rationalist’. To put his thoughts simply, he believed in a scientific world view but knew that the role of emotions cannot be eliminated.

JRL had been active in various movements to eradicate superstition. He was also actively associated with anti-nuclear and environmental movements. Even in these activities, in which, one can say, he believed passionately, the passion coming after rational thought.

The other reason for him to write popular science was also based on the observation that more and more public money was being spent on science. The general public must have the means to think knowledgeably about such matters, and that is only possible if one has at least a general knowledge of matters scientific and had the means to think about matters objectively. Such thoughts were also associated with the conviction that scientists (and artists, musicians and so on) must be socially responsible.

Whereas his reading was influenced greatly by Kuvempu, his writing was molded by another well-known writer, Dr G P Rajaratnam. JRL‘s ambition to popularize science and scientific temper got an opportunity when he delivered a popular science talk on the subject of food (Aahaara) under the University Extension Lectures programme of the Mysore University. This led to the publication of a booklet under the same title.  At about the same time, the University of Madras announced a prize for the best science writing in various Indian Languages. JRL wrote a book concerning the atom, called Paramanu Charitre (The History of the Atom). Before submitting the book for the contest, he was guided by Dr Rajaratnam in the nuances of language and writing. He always recalls the way the great man took the trouble to refine not only the manuscript but also JRL‘s whole view of writing. The book also won the prize in the competition. He often quotes and believes in the recommendation of Quintilian (Roman writer on rhetoric, Circa AD 95): “By perspicuity, care is taken not that the hearer may understand, if he will, but that he must understand, whether he will or not”.

Starting from there, he went on to write a number of books and also translate various books from English to Kannada. They include science books for children, biographies and a critique of the atomic energy programme, and so on. The guiding principles of his writing always were simplicity, clarity of expression, devoid of jargon, the aim being the writing is understandable to an average but interested reader.

His efforts towards achieving these also led him to think deeply about languages per se and he had analyzed the common errors in Kannada writing and so on. He also formulated a set of principles that ought to be followed while coining technical terms in Kannada.

JRL also encouraged his wife, Jeevu Bai, to write. Highly talented and with a B A degree, she was very supportive of all his activities and really enabled him to achieve whatever he did. She translated a biography of Charles Darwin and the autobiography of Leopold Infeld, Quest (Shodha), both in Kannada. Here is a memorable picture of the two together:

JRL’s interest in and command over English and Kannada prompted the Mysore University to invite him to be the technical and scientific editor of the English-Kannada dictionary. He eventually served as the chief editor of this dictionary. While working there, he was given the affectionate title of “Shabda Brahma” by one of his colleagues, the great Kannada poet PuTiNa, thanks to JRL‘s ability to coin appropriate scientific and technical terms in Kannada. Here, his abilities of analysis, recognition of patterns, knowledge of Kannada and English and an unusually large vocabulary of Sanskrit words came to the fore and he was the originator of many technical terms that have come into common usage in scientific and technical writing in Kannada.

The University of Mysore had a magazine called Prabuddha Karnataka, a journal dedicated to the liberal arts and social sciences. During the golden jubilee celebrations of the University, a commemorative issue of the magazine was planned. A similar volume of scientific articles was also planned. Two large volumes of this commemorative issue were published under the editorship of JRL. This was also the beginning of the science equivalent of Prabuddha Karnataka called Vijnana Karnataka also under the editorship of JRL.

Later, influenced by the activities of the Kerala Shastra Sahitya Parishat, he conceived the idea of starting the Karnataka Rajya Vijnana Parishat and bringing out a Kannada science magazine, Balavijnana, under its aegis. The magazine was meant for high school students and members of the public whose knowledge of science was, at least, of that level.

He was perhaps a feminist when the term feminism had not even entered common parlance. Apart from the sense of revulsion at any form of oppression, the question “how can a country hope to progress, if it refuses to benefit from the talents and contributions of more than fifty percent of its population – that of the women of the country?” was the thought behind the importance he placed on women‘s education and women‘s emancipation.

JRL developed an interest in classical music during his studies in Central College. (Interestingly, it was his classmate in MSc Chemistry and lifelong friend, K Srinivasan, who introduced him to both Marxism and Classical music). He went on to learn a good deal about the theory of music and also the physics of music. He also developed a taste for Hindustani and Western classical music and listened to them with great appreciation. Along with a group of other enthusiasts, he was the founder of Ganabharathi a music organization in Mysore.

For a more detailed account of the life and work of Prof JRL, the encyclopaedic publication under discussion here is possibly the best source of information, and within it, numerous references cited therein. To project a more enlightened picture of the life and work of JRL, I will attempt to extract chunks of representative excerpts from it in Kannada and render them into English for non-Kannada knowing readers in the second part of this blog article sometime later. For the present, I will merely indicate how the contents of the publication are organized and distributed among its 564 pages.

Organization of Content

1.    Foreword by Editor Dr T R Anantharamu

2.    Expression of thanks by ‘Maithri kutumba’

3.    List of contents

a.     Part 1: Recollections (Nenapina maale) – articles 1-25, pp 11-110 (last two articles in English, including one by me)

-         Subsection titled ‘Much liked JRL – from family and relations’; articles 26-40, pp 110-167

b.    Part 2: Pen sketches on JRL (Vyakti chitranagalu) – articles 41-50, pp 169-201

c.     Part 3: Specialty of JRL’s Writings – articles 51-59, pp 203-242

d.    Part 4: JRL’s writing variety (representative articles)

-         1 General writing articles 60-68, pp 257-276

-         2 Popular science writings 69-72, pp 278-292

-         3 Pure science articles 73-78, pp 296-321

-         4 Special articles 79-85 pp 328-360

e.     Part 5: JRL written pen sketches: articles 86-98, pp 355-416

f.     Part 6: Reminiscences – Reviews and Interviews: articles 99-106, pp 421-442 

g.    Part 7: JRL’s English Articles 107-111, pp 447-469

h.    Part 8: Q&A with JRL 112-113, pp 473-481

i.      Part 9: List of JRL’s Publications - p 519

j.      JRL’s Honors and Awards - p 536

k.    Part 10: Some memorable Pictures – p 537

l.      Introducing the Contributors, p 553

BSS – JRL Birth Centenary Lectures, p 562

The JRL I knew – Reminiscences

The following is a slightly expanded version of my article, number 24, appearing as Reminiscences on page 107 of the publication.  It listed a number of notable events and memories associated with the late Prof JRL whose birth centenary was celebrated three years ago. With apologies to both the Maithri family and the editor, I have introduced some additional content (wholly complimentary) and made some minor editorial changes as well. As before, the items are in no particular order.

  • My very first meeting with Prof JRL was at a seminar on science teaching at the Government College for Teachers, Mysore, sometime in the early seventies, just a few years after I had joined the then Regional College of Education, later to become the Regional Institute of Education. The two of us had shared the dais with Prof B Sanjeevaiah, HoD of Physics, University of Mysore. Listening to his ideas on what constituted meaningful science education in chaste and simple Kannada was an eye opener and a lesson in itself for me.
  • As I got to appreciate the utterly unostentatious simplicity of his personality, my admiration for what he stood and strived for grew with each meeting I had with him from then onwards. Most of these meetings were informal and at his home which exuded a serenely intellectual atmosphere, proclaiming simple living and high thinking, sometimes in the presence of his amazingly gifted wife.
  • In my school days I remember to have read a short essay by an eminent English writer extolling the virtues of a supposedly ‘perfect’ gentleman. I was always on the lookout for anyone fitting this description, but found none. But there were a handful that came close to doing so and Prof JRL was undoubtedly one of them (Prof S B Bondade, my physics professor and principal at the Central College, Bangalore, was the first one). In one of the earliest meetings at his home Prof JRL had introduced me to a few contemporary publications and literature highlighting the need for a scientific and rationalistic outlook on everyday problems of life. This had a profound influence on my thoughts and actions on all walks of my own life. I am greatly indebted to him for this.
  • One morning, I ran into Prof JRL at the Mysore railway station as both of us were getting into the same carriage in a Bangalore bound train and we had no difficulty finding window side seats (second class as always!) facing each other for a three-hour journey that was a fortuitous invitation to me for a long interaction with him, generally about everything under the sun, but mainly about contemporary science related topics. Unlike with some high-end celebrities, it was truly an interaction and there was a lot of give and take on both sides. He was as good a listener as a speaker, with a healthy respect for opposing viewpoints and we both felt that we had reached Bangalore a lot sooner than we desired.
  • On the matter of opposing viewpoints, we found one – the proliferation of nuclear energy and its fall out. It took me several decades to realize that nuclear energy is like a double-edged sword, something he was emphasizing so far back in time.
  • Much later in life, Prof JRL casually revealed to me that his own thoughts and actions had been enormously influenced by his association with Kuvempu in particular and others like Dr A N Murthy Rao in general. Having studied Kanooru Heggadithi as a textbook in my own degree course, I could appreciate this connection to Kuvempu. I was thrilled to learn that the great poet was also a great advocate of science and scientific temper.
  • Once Prof JRL had shown me a copy of A N Murthy Rao’s mildly provocative and award-winning work Devaru. A few days after I had evinced a serious interest in it, he personally delivered a copy to me at my home as his own gift. I read it with great interest for the modesty and rectitude with which it challenged long ingrained beliefs in the Indian society. At the same time, I thought he was going too soft with his arguments, unlike Richard Dawkins in his ‘God Delusion’.
  • Prof JRL had offered to take me to Dr Murthy Rao’s residence in Bangalore for a tete-a-tete. Unfortunately, this did not materialize and the fault was entirely mine. I do realize how much I missed.
  • A person who wielded a tremendous influence on Prof. JRL was his contemporary and close associate Mr M A Sethu Rao with whom he was instrumental in founding the Karnataka Rajya Vijnana Parishat (KRVP). In my student days in Bangalore, I had known about Sethu Rao both as an ardent Marxist and an equally ardent supporter of popular science. So, it was not much of a surprise to me that these two had got together in this worthy endeavor. I came to know only much later that the two had many differences of view, yet worked together as one for a common cause.
  • It was a master stroke on the part of Prof JRL and Prof Sethu Rao to have inducted Dr H Narasimhaiah as the president of KRVP. Dr HN was another person strongly committed to promoting a scientific attitude in everyday life and rendered yeoman service, stirring up several controversies much of which were both welcome and overdue in our society. I had known Dr HN quite well professionally and, curiously, both of us had been nuclear physics students under the same eminent professor at the Ohio State University in USA.
  • By the time KRVP could finally have its own headquarters in Bangalore, independent of the resources of the Indian Institute of Science, through the relentless effort of Dr HN and a few others, Prof JRL’s active association with the organization had ended.
  • Once, KRVP had organized a seminar in Dharwad and Prof JRL wanted me to be a speaker in its plenary session and present a paper, necessarily in Kannada. He would not allow me to excuse myself on the plea that my Kannada was too poor to meet the challenge. He argued very persuasively (and very correctly as it turned out) that language competence was not a hindrance for the purpose of science communication, and suggested that I write a draft of my paper which he would polish up if necessary. Reluctantly, and with a lot of effort, I did this and took it to him rather hesitantly. He returned this the next day saying that he needed to correct only a few spelling mistakes! With a huge sigh of relief and much less reluctantly, I presented my paper in the plenary session chaired by the renowned polymath Dr Shivaram Karanth who made a few appreciative comments later. This experience was my trigger for a progressively productive effort at communication in simple colloquial style language. I am deeply indebted to Prof JRL for this, but regret not making any further serious attempt at writing in Kannada – all the more inexcusable as a former student of the great Dr G P Rajaratnam at the Central College, Bangalore.
  • Unlike me, Prof JRL did not relish travelling long distances. When he had to visit Delhi to receive the prestigious national award from the National Council for Science and Technology Communication in 1992, he was rather nervous about the visit and I had to convince him that it would not be uncomfortable in any way. I had even considered accompanying him by scheduling an official visit for myself to my parent body, the NCERT, located close to where he was to go. However, this did not become necessary.
  • Soon after the NCSTC award, a get-together was held in Mysore to felicitate him. I also spoke on the occasion and when I stood up to speak, I wanted to describe his personality by just one word. I thought I got it right when I used the word transparent! He was certainly pleased with this accolade because, as he said, he always tried to be just that.
  • Prof JRL was associated with school science education in various ways. He was once the chairperson of the committee for textbook preparation for the Karnataka school system. In this capacity, he had to face numerous challenges, especially centered on making the textbook content relevant and reflective of the broad methodology for effective teaching and learning. He fell far short of his goals, as indeed was my own experience in a similar role a decade later.
  • One of the memorable statements from his experience in editing school science textbooks was that no content could be founded on a system of beliefs. He used to cite the example of river Ganga being described as ‘pure’ because ‘it was self-cleansing’, suggesting that the river had divine properties. He found it easier to delete such content than to correct such stupidities.
  • My abiding memory of JRL is that of a father figure, standing tall in his efforts to spread the message of science and a scientific outlook in all walks of life.

I say adieu with a pair of pictures of JRL at his home, pictures that to me are most evocative of the man I have known as a father figure, in more senses than one. To echo what Einstein said of Gandhi; “generations to come will scarce believe that such a one as this ever in flesh and blood walked upon this earth”.


 [I am indebted to both Brinda and Anil for previewing this article and providing very useful inputs, suggestions and feedback.]


Appendix A: Major Honors and Awards conferred on JRL

  • Honored during the Platinum Jubilee Celebration of Kannada Sahitya Parishat, 1977
  • Honored by the Hindi Sahitya Sammelana with the title Vijnaana Saraswati Honour, 1978
  • Awarded the Shivarama Kaarantha Prashasthi by Moodabidare Shivarama Karantha Prathishtaana, 1992
  • National Award for “The best individual efforts in Science & Technology popularization” by National Council of Science and Technology Communication, 1992
  • The book Paramanu Charitre received the prize as the best manuscript on the story of the atom in Kannada by the Madras University, 1949
  • The children’s book Galileo received the award for the best children’s literature from NCERT, 1968
  • Vijnaana Vichaara (Collection of Essays) received the award for the best collection of essays from the State Sahitya Academy, 1971
  • “Archimedes” received the award for the best children’s literature from the State Sahitya Academy, 1976
  • The play “Galileo” based on a play by Bertolt Brecht, written along with Shri H K Ramachandra Murthy received the State Sahitya Academy, 1976
  • “Meghnad Saha”, translation of book by Santimay and Enakshi Chatterjee received the award for best translation from the State Sahitya Academy, 1994
  • Chakra (A collection of essays) received the award for the best collection of essays from the State Sahitya Academy, 1996

 

Appendix B: Major Publications of JRL

Work

Year

Publishers

Remarks

Aahaara

1943

Prasaranga (University of Mysore)

 

Paramanu Charithre

1949

J R L Rao

Prize winning Book, Madras University

Indina Vijnaana Mattu Neevu

1957-58

Southern Language Book Trust, Madras

Translation of American Writer Lin Pool

Galileo – A Biography (For children)

1963-64

Suruchi

Prize

Archimedes – A Biography (For children)

1976

Suruchi

 

Vaijnanikate

2002

Navakarnataka

 

Chakra (Popular Science Articles)

Jan 1995

Navakarnataka

 

Janasaamaanyarige Entaha Vijnaana Beku? What kind of science does the common man need?

March 1995

Navakarnataka

 

English-Kannada Vijnaana Kosha – A Glossary of Scientific Words (Co-author Sri. A. Krishna Bhat)

1990, Rev 1991, 1997, 2007.

Karnataka Rajya Vijnaana Parishattu

 

Aakasmika Aavishkaara (Serendipity)

1996

Karnataka Rajya Vijnaana Parishattu

 

Vijnyaana Baravanige – Kelavu Samasyegalu – Some Problems Relating to Science Writing

1988

Karnataka Rajya Vijnaana Parishattu

 

Ippattu Vijnaanigalu (Twenty Scientists) Edited – A Collection of Short Biographies of Scientists by Different Writers

1987

Karnataka Rajya Vijnaana Parishattu

 

Vijnaana Deepakaru

First Edition 1994 Fourth Edition 2007

Karnataka Rajya Vijnaana Parishattu

 

Meghnad Saha – (Biography of The Famous Indian Scientist)

1993

National Book Trust of India

Translation of Sri. Santimay Chatterjee and Smt. Enakshi Chatterjee Best Translation of The Year Award by Karnataka Sahitya Academy

Haaraaduva Tattegalu (Flying Saucers) – A Collection of Popular Science Articles

2005

Navakarnataka

 

Jagattannu Badalaayisida Vijnaanika Saadhanegalu Part 1 & 2 (Inventions That Changed the World) – For Children

 

National Book Trust of India (For Nehru Baala Pustakaalaya)

Translation of a book by Mir Najbat Ali

Vijnaana Chodyagalu – Scientific Curiosities (A Collection of Scientific Articles for Children)

1995

Nirmala Prakashana (Under the Nirmala Pustaka Maale Project)

 

Vijnaana Vichaara (A Collection of Articles on Different Topics)

1971

Suruchi

 

Bhaarateeya Railu (Indian Railways)

1975

National Book Trust of India

Translation

Galileo (A Play by Bertolt Brecht)

1976

Suruchi

Translated by JRL and H. K. Ramachandramurthy

Bhaaratada Paramaanu Shakti Yojane (Indias atomic energy project)

 

Prasaranga, University of Mysore

A Translation of a book by Dr. A Rajaramanna

Baijika Vidyuttu (Nuclear Power)

 

Dattatreya Prakashana

 

Alochana – Thoughts (A Collection of Scientific and General Articles)

 

Maithri, Saraswatipuram, Mysore

 

Kannada Baravanige – Doshagalu, Dourbalyagalu (Kannada Writing – Defects and Weaknesses)

 

Talukina Venkannayya Smaaraka Granthamaale

Co author – Prof. T. V. Venkatachala Shastry

English – Kannada Dictionary

 

University of Mysore

Editor (1966-71) Chief Editor (1971-81)

English – Kannada Encyclopedic Dictionary of Environment

 

Orient Longman

Whetting

Nenapina Alegalu – Reminiscences

 

Navakarnataka

Autobiographical Reminiscences

Vijnaanigalodane Rasanimishagalu (A Collection of Interesting Anecdotes About Various Scientists)

 

Navakarnataka

 

Jyotishyada Guttu (Secrets of Astrology) – For Children

 

State Resource Centre, Karnataka (Under Manovijyaana Maale)

 

Vijnaana Mattu Tantrajnaana

 

State Resource Centre, Karnataka (Under Manovijyaana Maale)

 

Scientific “Laws”, “Hypotheses” and “Theories” Meanings and Distinctions – J. R. Lakshmana Rao – Resonance – November 1998

Einstein and Religion – Prof. J. R. Lakshmana Rao – Star of Mysore
JRL Rao organised 
Science Workshops and Translation Workshops

https://www.ias.ac.in/articles/fulltext/reso/003/12/0055-0061 


 

Saturday, November 16, 2024

 

Rocky Ruins of Petra in Jordan

One of the Seven Wonders of the World

Travelogue 36

Petra is half-built, half-carved into the rock, and is surrounded by mountains riddled with passages and gorges. It is one of the world's most famous archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.


A famous archaeological site in Jordan's southwestern desert dating to around 300 BC, Petra was the capital of the Nabatean Kingdom. Accessed via a long narrow canyon, it contains tombs and temples carved into pink sandstone cliffs. It is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, and the country’s most famous tourist attraction.  In this travelogue, I recount with mixed feelings my experience of having visited it on an oppressively hot and sunny day in May 2018.  

Prelude

In a previous blog article (see here), I had narrated how I had completed a sweep of all seven manmade modern Wonders of the World, beginning with the Taj Mahal as far back as 1963, and ending with Chichen Itza in April this year, giving brief descriptions of each.  I had also indicated that they would each be supported by more detailed articles in later blogs. As it so happens, I have already posted such descriptive articles in respect of the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China earlier (see here, and here).  My most recent article (see here) relates to another of the seven wonders, the great Inca citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru. In the present travelogue, I address myself to the rocky ruins of Petra in Jordan, which I visited on 10 May 2018 as part of my tour of Israel and neighboring Jordan.

Petra, known as the “Rose City” for its pink-hued sandstone cliffs, is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world. Located in southern Jordan (see map below), Petra is famed for its rock-cut architecture, rich history, and stunning landscapes. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985 (see inscription below), Petra attracts tourists from around the world eager to experience its ancient allure. This article provides a peep into Petra’s history, geography, and tourist insights, along with practical travel tips.



History

Petra was originally established around the 4th century BCE by the Nabataeans, a group of Arab traders who flourished in this region due to their strategic location on important trade routes between Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean. The Nabataeans built Petra as their capital, excelling in architecture, water management, and commerce. At its height, Petra was a vibrant hub for trade, housing thousands of residents and visitors. The city thrived until the 4th century CE, when changes in trade routes and a series of earthquakes led to its decline. For centuries, Petra was largely forgotten by the outside world until Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt rediscovered it in 1812. Since then, Petra has fascinated archaeologists, historians, and travelers alike.

Geography

Petra (see the detailed representation below) is located in the Ma’an Governorate in southern Jordan, nestled in a basin among towering sandstone mountains. Its geographical position provided natural protection, and its impressive rock formations allowed the Nabataeans to carve stunning structures directly into the cliffs. The landscape around Petra is rugged and dramatic, featuring narrow gorges, deep valleys, and vibrant red-hued rock. The Siq, a narrow canyon that serves as the main entrance to Petra, is one of the most famous natural features in the world.

Petra site map (left) with legend at upper right.
(A part of it from the entry gate is shown enlarged in lower right)

Tourist Information

Petra is open to visitors year-round, though the best times to visit are during the cooler months between March and May and September to November. The Jordanian government operates Petra as a protected site, and the hefty entrance fees (about INR 12,000) are a source of revenue, at least part of it being used for preservation efforts.

  • Entrance Fees: Prices vary based on whether you are a day visitor or staying in Jordan overnight. Day visitors pay around 90 JD, while overnight guests pay approximately 50 JD for a single day.
  • Visiting Hours: Petra opens at 6 am during the summer and 6:30 am in winter. It closes around sunset.

How to Reach Petra

Amman, Jordan’s capital, is approximately 235 kilometers north of Petra. There are several ways to travel from Jordan’s capital Amman to Petra:

1. By Car: Renting a car is one of the most convenient options. The drive from Amman to Petra takes about 3 hours via the Desert Highway (Highway 15).

2. By Bus: The JETT Bus Company offers a daily tourist bus from Amman to Petra, departing in the early morning and returning in the late afternoon. It’s a reliable and economical option.

3. By Taxi: Taxis can be hired from Amman, although it may be more expensive than other options. Agree on a fare beforehand if you choose this route.

4. Private Tours: Many tour companies in Amman offer guided day trips to Petra, which include transport, entry fees, and a guide.

Travel Tips

  • Wear Comfortable Shoes: Petra covers a vast area, and visitors typically walk long distances while exploring the site.
  • Bring Water and Snacks: Staying hydrated is crucial, especially in the warmer months. There are limited refreshment areas inside Petra.
  • Consider Hiring a Guide: To get the most out of your visit, hire a licensed guide to explain the historical and architectural significance of each site.
  • Visit Early: Arriving early allows you to explore Petra before the crowds and enjoy cooler temperatures.
  • Petra by Night: This event, held on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, lets visitors experience the Treasury illuminated by thousands of candles—a magical and unique experience (see picture below).


Exploring Petra’s Major Features

The Siq: This 1.2-kilometer gorge is the main entrance to Petra, with walls towering up to 80 meters (see picture below). Walking through the Siq is a thrilling experience, as the canyon twists and narrows before dramatically revealing Petra’s most famous structure, Al-Khazanah, the Treasury.

The Treasury (Al-Khazanah): Perhaps the most iconic symbols of Petra, the Treasury’s intricate façade is carved into the sandstone cliff. This 40-meter-high structure likely served as a royal tomb, though its exact purpose remains a mystery. Al-Khazanah is particularly stunning in the morning light. Below is a view of it in rather hazy light, partly showing up at the end of a long and expectant walk on the Siq.

The Street of Facades: This area (number 5 in the Petra map legend) features rows of tombs and other structures carved into the cliff walls. These facades (see picture below) represent some of Petra’s best-preserved rock-cut architecture.

The Royal Tombs: Located on the eastern cliff (see picture below), the Royal Tombs (7 to 12 in the Petra map legend) are an impressive series of elaborate tombs believed to be reserved for Petra’s elite. Each tomb has its unique architectural style and carvings.

The Great Temple: Thought to be a grand structure for public use, the Great Temple complex (see picture below) includes courtyards, a colonnaded street, and theater-like seating. It lies south of the Colonnaded Street (number 15 in the Petra map legend).

The Monastery (Ad Deir): The Monastery, located atop a steep ascent of around 800 steps (see picture below and number 24 in the Petra map legend), is one of the largest monuments in Petra. Its remote location and stunning views over the valley make it a must-see, especially during sunset. One of the most iconic monuments in the Petra Archaeological Park, Ad Deir is the second most commonly visited monument in Petra, after the Al-Khazanah or Treasury.

The High Place of Sacrifice: Situated on a mountaintop, the High Place of Sacrifice (see picture below and number 26 in the Petra map legend) offers panoramic views of Petra and the surrounding landscape. The trail leading up to it is challenging but rewarding.


Other Features

  • Petra Archaeological Museum: This impressive museum (see picture below), located near the visitors’ center, showcases artifacts from Petra and provides insights into the history and culture of the Nabataeans.

  • Local Souvenirs: The markets around Petra offer traditional Jordanian handicrafts, jewelry, and souvenirs. Buying locally supports the community and helps preserve the craft traditions of the Bedouins who have lived in Petra for generations.

My Day at Petra

Let me now recount my experience of visiting Petra under far from memorable circumstances as part of a poorly managed tour. The visit had been scheduled for the last day of a ten-day combined trip to Israel and Jordan in which I was one of about thirty tourists from Bangalore, India. The fact that we were to see one of the seven wonders of the world had gone largely unappreciated. On the penultimate day, we had a raucous party at a desert resort in Wadi Rum in southern Jordan lasting well into the night. So, when we left for Petra the following morning on a northward journey of over two hours, we were already late on what was expected to be a hot day.

After about an hour of the bus journey through the desert, our tour guide learnt that one of the young lady tourists had ‘lost’ her apparently expensive diamond (!) ring back at the desert resort, and had no alternative but to back track when he was told that the ring had indeed been found, waiting to be claimed by the owner! This meant an additional two hours on the desert journey, wholly avoidable but for the carelessness of one individual who, adding insult to injury, was also least contrite.

When we arrived at the impressive visitors’ center at Petra (see picture below), it was close to noon time, and the Sun was beating down hard on an oppressively hot day.


After passing through the entrance, we had to trek some considerable distance in harsh open desolate terrain (see picture below) before reaching the comparative comfort of the nearly 2 km walk through the narrow pathway called the Siq lying between towering cliffs, with little respite from the heat of the Sun blazing overhead. One could mitigate this by hiring a horse drawn vehicle, but at a substantial additional cost, and only for part of the journey.


The journey through the Siq was exciting, with plenty of photo opportunities to capture the towering natural formations in exciting colors.  Below are just two of numerous such views I captured:



It was quite some time before we could get a face-on glimpse of the iconic Al-Khazanah at the end of the gorge (see a previous picture).  Below is a memorable picture of me in front of the monument, recording my fortuitous presence before a pair of camels appropriate to the occasion:


The Al-Khazanah is a great monolithic structure carved into a huge rock formation (see the wide angle picture below).


Nearby (see picture below) is a bilingual plaque describing the monument.


The unbearably hot weather meant that most of us were exhausted by the time we reached the prime target of our visit, the Al-Khazana, with little energy left to go all the way up to the next one, the Monastery that was quite some distance further away. The best we could do was to explore the immediate neighborhood of the Al-Khazana.  Below is one such sight.

Those of us who felt strong enough to walk up to the Monastery were thwarted from trying when our guide told us that we had a really long journey ahead of us, all the way to Amman, the Capital of Jordan.  Thus, we had to be content with only a part of the wonder that was Petra, all because of one person’s callous carelessness in the morning.

Conclusion

Petra is a striking blend of nature’s handiwork and human ingenuity. From its rich history to its stunning rock-carved architecture, Petra offers visitors a chance to experience a world that feels both lost and timeless. Whether you’re hiking to the Monastery, marveling at the Treasury, or simply taking in the landscape, Petra is an unforgettable journey into the past. By planning ahead and respecting the site’s historical significance, you can make the most of your visit to this extraordinary destination.

Tailpiece

What makes the two principal monuments at Petra standout is the fact that they are carved into gigantic monolithic blocks of stone. When I reflected on this, my memory went back to something similar and even more awe-inspiring (see picture below) at the Ellora Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Aurangabad district of Maharashtra state, India.   The Kailasanatha temple, part of which is seen in the picture, is the largest of the megalithic rock-cut temples at the Ellora Caves and considered one of the most remarkable cave temples in the world because of its size, architecture and intricate carvings in traditional style. Sadly, this stupendous monument didn’t even make it to the pre-final 21-item list of the wonders of the world. One wonders whether bias or neglect had any say in the matter.



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