Ultra-high Energy Ghost Particles

The IceCube Neutrino Observatory

Nobel Prizes in Astrophysics & Cosmology - Part 12

Francis Halzen

“Neutrinos alone, among all the known particles, have ethereal properties that are striking and romantic enough both to have inspired a poem by John Updike and to have sent teams of scientists deep underground for 50 years to build huge science-fiction-like contraptions to unravel their mysteries.”

— Lawrence M Krauss

 

 

The Nobel Prize is equated with the pinnacle of human achievement in both popular perception and professional esteem.  Since it was first awarded in 1901, the annual Nobel Prize for Physics has gone to major contributions in Astrophysics and Cosmology related fields only on twelve occasions, including one this year. The first eleven awards (1967, 1974, 1978, 1983, 1993, 2002, 2006, 2011, 2017, 2019 and 2020) were the subjects of earlier articles (see here 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11). The next and the latest one is this year (2026), being awarded solely to Francis Halzen “for decisive contributions to the IceCube Neutrino Observatory and the discovery of high-energy neutrinos of astrophysical origin”.

Looking Back

When I started my series of articles last year on Nobel Prizes in Astrophysics and Cosmology (see here), there were eleven occasions (spread over 1967 - 2020) when the award went to contributions in these fields, with as many as 26 recipients in all.  Of these, only one (Hans A Bethe in 1967) was a sole recipient. On all other occasions the award was split between two or three, such being the extent and diversity of the achievements.

In such a fast expanding (pun intended) enterprise as the exploration of the Universe, I realized that each following year presented a potential opportunity to add to my list.  It has not been a long wait.

On 6th October at 3:15 PM IST, almost as if I was anticipating it with a prescience, came the live announcement from Stockholm that this year’s award has been conferred (solely) on the 82-year-old Belgian-American physicist Francis Halzen, from the University of Wisconsin - Madison, USA, for his long-standing and pioneering work on the IceCube Astronomy Observatory deep under the Earth’s south pole, which has opened up another window to the Universe through High-energy Neutrino Astrophysics.

Below is a beautiful poster giving a pictorial elucidation of all that one needs to know in a hurry:

What are Neutrinos

Neutrinos are some of the most mysterious and abundant subatomic particles in the universe. They are often called "ghost particles" because they have almost no mass, travel at nearly the speed of light, and can pass through solid matter—including walls, planets, and your own body—without leaving a trace. Every second, trillions of neutrinos pass through you completely unnoticed and without any effect whatsoever. The neutrino belongs to the lepton family, making it a close relative of the electron, but with two major differences: it carries no electric charge and it has almost zero mass.

Here is the story of how they were predicted, discovered, and why they matter to the universe.

How Their Existence Was Postulated (The Missing Energy)

In the early 20th century, physicists were studying beta decay, a type of radioactive process where an unstable atom spits out an electron to become more stable.

According to the laws of physics, the energy before the decay must equal the energy after the decay (the law of conservation of energy). However, when scientists measured the energy of the departing electron, they noticed a major problem: some energy was missing. It looked as though energy was simply vanishing into thin air.

Rather than give up on the fundamental laws of physics, Austrian physicist Wolfgang Pauli made a desperate guess in 1930. He proposed that the atom was spitting out a second particle along with the electron. This mystery particle had to be completely invisible, neutral (carrying no electric charge), and incredibly light so that it could steal away the missing energy without being detected.

Examples of Beta Decay

Italian physicist Enrico Fermi later named this ghost particle the neutrino, which translates to "little neutral one."

The First Discovery (Catching the Ghost)

Because neutrinos barely interact with normal matter, Pauli famously lamented, "I have done a terrible thing. I have postulated a particle that cannot be detected." For decades, many believed they could never be proven to exist.

That changed in 1956 thanks to American physicists Clyde Cowan and Frederick Reines. They realized that while an individual neutrino is nearly impossible to stop, if you produce a massive flood of them, a tiny fraction will inevitably crash into something.

Frederick Reines (far right) with Clyde Cowan (far left) and other members of

Project Poltergeist

They set up a massive detector filled with water and cadmium next to the Savannah River nuclear reactor in South Carolina, which pumped out trillions of neutrinos every second. A tiny handful of these neutrinos crashed into the protons in the water, creating a specific pattern of light flashes. This definitive proof won Reines the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1995 (Cowan had unfortunately passed away by then).

Neutrino Flavors

Neutrinos come in three distinct types, known in particle physics as flavors. Each flavor pairs up with a corresponding charged lepton:

1.     Electron Neutrino (ν_e): Produced alongside electrons during nuclear reactions like beta decay inside stars.

2.     Muon Neutrino (ν_µ): Produced when energetic cosmic rays smash into Earth's upper atmosphere, generating heavier leptons called muons.

3.     Tau Neutrino (ν_τ): The rarest and heaviest type, associated with extreme high-energy particle collisions.

Neutrino Oscillations

For decades, the Standard Model of particle physics assumed neutrinos were completely mass-less. However, experiments tracking solar neutrinos noticed a puzzle: scientists detected far fewer electron neutrinos arriving from the Sun than nuclear physics predicted.

The mystery was solved when physicists realized neutrinos possess a tiny amount of mass, allowing them to oscillate—or morph—from one flavor into another while traveling through space.

As a neutrino travels, its quantum state continuously shifts. An electron neutrino generated at the core of the Sun can transform into a muon or tau neutrino by the time it reaches an underground detector on Earth. This discovery proved that neutrinos must have mass, opening up new physics beyond the original Standard Model.

How Do We Catch a Ghost Particle?

Detecting particles that can pass straight through lead blocks even light-years thick requires giant detectors buried deep underground or under Antarctic ice:

• Massive Water Tanks: Experiments like Super-Kamiokande in Japan use 50,000 tons of ultra-pure water surrounded by thousands of light sensors.
• Cherenkov Radiation: On the rare occasion a neutrino strikes an atomic nucleus inside the water, it produces a fast-moving charged particle. This secondary particle creates a tiny ring of blue light (Cherenkov radiation), allowing physicists to reconstruct the neutrino's original direction, energy, and flavor.

IceCube Neutrino Observatory

Located beneath the Antarctic ice at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, the IceCube Neutrino Observatory is one of humanity's most ambitious scientific projects, essentially the brainchild of this year’s Nobel physics prize awardee. By transforming a cubic kilometer of pristine polar ice into a particle detector, IceCube observes high-energy cosmic events from the furthest reaches of the universe.

View of the IceCube observatory above ground

Unlike photons (light) or charged cosmic rays, neutrinos can travel across billions of light-years in straight lines, unaffected by magnetic fields, interstellar dust, or dense cosmic clouds. This makes them pristine astronomical messengers, carrying unambiguous data directly from the centers of violent astrophysical phenomena.

To capture particles that rarely collide with matter, scientists required an extraordinarily large detection volume. Constructed between 2004 and 2011, IceCube instrumented a billion tons of ultra-pure Antarctic glacial ice.

• The Sensor Array: IceCube consists of 86 vertical cables (strings) melted into boreholes between 1,450 meters and 2,450 meters below the surface.
• Digital Optical Modules (DOMs): Attached to these cables are 5,160 DOMs—spherical glass pressure vessels containing photomultiplier tubes and onboard digitization electronics.
• Cherenkov Radiation Detection: When a high-energy neutrino strikes an atomic nucleus inside or near the ice, it produces secondary charged particles (such as muons, electrons, or tauons) moving faster than the speed of light in ice. This creates a faint cone of blue light known as Cherenkov radiation, which the optical sensors detect and timestamp with nanosecond precision.
• DeepCore Subdetector: A central, densely packed subset of strings optimized for detecting lower-energy neutrinos (down to 10 GeV), aiding the study of neutrino oscillations.

High-energy Astrophysics

Since reaching full operational capacity in 2011, IceCube has fundamentally reshaped high-energy astrophysics:

1.     First Astrophysical High-Energy Neutrinos (2013): IceCube made the first detection of ultra-high-energy cosmic neutrinos originating far outside our solar system and galaxy, opening a new window into multi-messenger astronomy.

2.     Identifying Active Galactic Nuclei (2018): In a historic multi-messenger alert, IceCube tracked a high-energy neutrino (IceCube-170922A) back to TXS 0506+056, a blazar (a supermassive black hole shooting a relativistic jet directly toward Earth) 3.7 billion light-years away.

3.     Neutrino Map of the Milky Way (2023): IceCube published the first non-electromagnetic image of our galaxy by mapping diffuse high-energy neutrino emissions along the galactic plane.

4.     Observation of the Glashow Resonance: Detected a predicted 6.3 PeV (quadrillion electron volts) interaction between an anti-electron neutrino and an electron, confirming a 60-year-old fundamental particle physics theory.

Francis Halzen (1944 - ) – A Biographical Sketch

Francis Halzen (born March 23, 1944) is a Belgian-American particle physicist and astrophysicist who has just been awarded the 2026 Nobel Prize in Physics. He is widely recognized as the pioneer of neutrino astronomy, turning deep Antarctic ice into a cosmic telescope to hunt for elusive "ghost particles" from the distant universe.

Birth and Origins

• Date of Birth: March 23, 1944
• Place of Birth: Tienen, Belgium
• Nationality: Belgian-American

Collegiate Education & Early Academic Career

• Higher Education: Halzen attended the Catholic University of Leuven (KU Leuven) in Belgium, where he focused his studies on mathematics and physics.
• Degrees Earned: He completed his Master’s degree in 1966 and went on to earn a PhD in 1969.
• Doctoral Thesis: His PhD thesis investigated the broken symmetries of hadrons, reflecting his early foundations in theoretical particle physics.

Professional Attainments & Academic Career

• CERN (Geneva): Following his doctorate, Halzen worked as a scientific associate at the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN) in Switzerland.
• University of Wisconsin–Madison: In 1972, he moved to the United States for what was originally intended to be brief six-month research stay at the University of Wisconsin–Madison. Instead, he stayed for over five decades, serving as an assistant professor and eventually attaining the prestigious titles of Vilas Research Professor and Gregory Breit Professor of Physics.
• Textbook Authorship: Early in his career, he co-authored the widely acclaimed textbook Quarks and Leptons, which became a foundational staple in graduate-level particle physics education worldwide.

Pioneering the IceCube Neutrino Observatory

By the mid-1980s, Halzen pivoted from accelerator-based particle physics toward the study of high-energy cosmic rays and cosmic neutrinos—nearly massless, uncharged subatomic particles that rarely interact with matter.

• The AMANDA Project (1987): Intrigued by Soviet concepts of underground/underwater tracking, Halzen deduced that deep Antarctic ice could serve as a perfect, pitch-black medium for capturing the faint blue light (Cherenkov radiation) left behind during rare neutrino collisions. In 1987, he initiated the Antarctic Muon and Neutrino Detector Array (AMANDA), which acted as a successful proof-of-concept by hot-water drilling sensors thousands of meters into South Pole ice.
• IceCube Construction (2004–2011): Acting as the Principal Investigator since 2001, Halzen led an ambitious international collaboration to scale up AMANDA. The result was the IceCube Neutrino Observatory, instrumenting one cubic kilometre of deep Antarctic ice with 5,160 optical sensors.
• Scientific Breakthrough (2013): In 2013, IceCube successfully made the first detection of high-energy cosmic neutrinos arriving from outside our solar system. This monumental achievement effectively launched neutrino astronomy, allowing scientists to track cosmic accelerators like supermassive black holes and blazars.

Academic Achievements & Notable Awards

Throughout his career, Halzen has accumulated prominent awards acknowledging his immense contributions to astroparticle physics:

• Nobel Prize in Physics (2026)
• APS Medal for Exceptional Achievement in Research (2026)
• Bruno Rossi Prize (2021)
• Homi Bhabha Award (2021)
• IUPAP Yodh Prize (2019)
• Bruno Pontecorvo Prize (2018)
• Balzan Prize for Astroparticle Physics (2015)
• Smithsonian American Ingenuity Award (2014)
• Fellow of the American Physical Society (Elected 1994)

[Note: Very little information of a personal nature is available in the public domain about Halzen.]

 

Appendix A

Specific Cosmic Sources Discovered by IceCube

For decades, astronomers relied on light (photons) to study the universe, but light can be blocked by cosmic dust and gas. Neutrinos travel completely unhindered across billions of light-years, acting as perfect cosmic messengers.

Using Halzen's observatory, scientists have pinpointed the exact origins of several high-energy cosmic neutrinos:

• TXS 0506+056 (The Breakthrough Blazar): In September 2017, IceCube detected a single, ultra-high-energy neutrino (designated IceCube-170922A). IceCube immediately alerted telescopes worldwide. Automated systems traced the particle back to a blazar—a giant elliptical galaxy with a rapidly spinning, supermassive black hole at its core, shooting a high-energy jet of particles directly toward Earth. This was the first time in history a high-energy neutrino source was definitively identified.

• Messier 77 (NGC 1068): In 2022, IceCube published a breakthrough finding revealing that a nearby active galaxy called Messier 77 (an active Seyfert galaxy in the constellation Cetus) is a steady emitter of high-energy neutrinos. Hidden behind dense shroud clouds of cosmic dust that block conventional light, the galaxy's central black hole was unmasked by IceCube’s particle data.
• The Milky Way Galaxy: In 2023, the IceCube collaboration achieved a long-sought milestone by producing the first-ever neutrino map of our own galaxy. By filtering out overwhelming atmospheric background noise, they proved that the plane of the Milky Way glows in high-energy neutrinos, likely produced when cosmic rays collide with interstellar gas clouds.

 

Appendix B

Atmospheric Neutrinos vs Cosmic Neutrinos

The thousands of light sensors inside IceCube record hundreds of thousands of particle events every day. A major component of the scientific process is separating local "noise" from true deep-space signals. Neutrinos detected at the South Pole are split into two categories based on where they were born:

Feature	Atmospheric Neutrinos	Cosmic Neutrinos
Origin	Produced locally in Earth's atmosphere.	Produced billions of light-years away in deep space.
How they form	High-energy cosmic rays (protons/nuclei flying through space) slam into gas atoms in Earth's upper atmosphere, triggering a cascade particle shower.	Generated directly inside catastrophic cosmic engines like blazars, active galactic nuclei, or supernovae.
Energy level	Lower energy (typically measured in the Giga-electronvolt [GeV] to low Tera-electronvolt [TeV] range).	Ultra-high energy (ranging from high TeV to Peta-electronvolt [PeV] and Exa-electronvolt [EeV] levels).
Abundance	Extremely common. IceCube detects roughly 30,000 to 100,000+ per year.	Exceptionally rare. IceCube only isolates about 30 high-energy cosmic neutrinos a year.
Scientific Use	Used to study fundamental particle physics, neutrino flavor oscillations, and the Earth's interior structure.	Used as cosmic tracers to locate the most powerful, invisible particle accelerators in the universe.

Appendix C

The Next Frontier: The IceCube-Gen2 Upgrade

Having proven that neutrino astronomy works, Francis Halzen’s collaboration developed a massive expansion plan. Following the completion of the mid-scale IceCube Upgrade in 2026—which added new, highly sensitive multi-pixel digital optical modules (mDOMs and D-Eggs) to the central core—the project is laying the groundwork for the next-generation mega-observatory: IceCube-Gen2.

• Massive Volume Expansion: IceCube-Gen2 will deploy an additional 120 optical strings into the deep ice, spaced much wider apart (roughly 240 metres). This will expand the instrumented monitoring volume from 1 cubic kilometre to 8 cubic kilometres—effectively scaling the size of the telescope eightfold.
• Tenfold Detections: The enormous increase in target volume means the observatory will be able to catch up to 1 million neutrinos every year. It will scale up the discovery rate of rare cosmic neutrinos by a full order of magnitude, transforming neutrino astronomy from capturing rare single events into routine data-mapping.
• The Radio Array Veto: Beyond optical sensors, Gen2 will feature a massive surface radio detector array spanning over 500 square kilometres of the Antarctic ice sheet. Radio waves can travel much farther through ice than light, allowing the array to target the highest-energy neutrinos in the universe (in the EeV range).
• Pinpoint Accuracy: Driven by the advanced mDOM sensor configurations and upgraded AI data processing architectures, Gen2 will achieve an exceptional angular resolution of 0.1 to 0.3 degrees. This will allow scientists to point directly to deep-space source coordinates with unprecedented structural precision.

The IceCube Upgrade consists of five new strings at the locations shown in the top view in red. The current IceCube array optimized for TeV neutrinos is shown in blue, while the existing low-energy extension known as DeepCore is shown in green. The new module types, mDOMs (red dots) and D-Eggs (blue dots), contain multiple photosensors in each module.

IceCube-Gen2 will open an entirely clear window into the high-energy universe, revealing cosmic events that remain completely hidden behind clouds of dust and radiation to traditional light-based telescopes.

 

Appendix D

Multi-Messenger Astronomy & Future Outlook

IceCube acts as a real-time early-warning network for the global astronomical community. When it detects a high-energy alert event, real-time algorithms calculate its trajectory within seconds and transmit coordinates to ground- and space-based optical, radio, X-ray, and gamma-ray observatories.

Plans are underway for IceCube-Gen2, a tenfold expansion of the optical detector volume designed to dramatically increase the event rate of cosmic neutrinos and pinpoint the cosmic particle accelerators driving the most energetic processes in the universe.

What Neutrinos Mean in the Scheme of the Universe

Neutrinos are essential to understanding how the cosmos operates. Their significance can be broken down into three major roles:

• Engineers of Stars: Neutrinos are a byproduct of the nuclear fusion that powers the Sun. Because they can escape the dense core of the Sun instantly, studying solar neutrinos allows scientists to peek directly into the heart of our star in real-time.
• The Cosmic Ledger: They are the second most abundant particles in the cosmos, right behind photons (particles of light). Because they carry mass—even an incredibly tiny amount—their collective weight influences how galaxies and massive cosmic structures clumped together over billions of years.
• Supernova Messengers: When a massive star dies and explodes (a supernova), 99% of its energy is released in the form of neutrinos. Because they blast right out of the collapsing star without getting trapped by gas or dust, they reach Earth hours before the visual light does, acting as an early-warning system for astronomers.

 

Total Solar Eclipse of 12Aug26

The charm of the eclipse at Leon, Spain

A Special Guest Article by Dr B S Shylaja

 

Eclipse watching is safer than skydiving, less strenuous than mountain climbing, but far more addicting than liquor. It is not expensive either, particularly if you want comfort.

– Jack B Zirker

 

Totality as observed at Leon, Spain

 

It is a privilege to post this special guest-written article from the distinguished astrophysicist and former director of the Jawaharlal Nehru Planetarium in Bangalore, Dr B S Shylaja, who describes her experience of viewing the recent total solar eclipse from Leon, Spain.  Including me, a small group of us were to have kept company with her and joined in the excitement, but she ended up as our sole representative.  Her disappointment of 2016 in Indonesia (as alluded to here) seems to have been well compensated for.

Dr B S Shylaja is a well-known Indian astrophysicist, science communicator and historian of astronomy, whose career has combined scientific research with an exceptional commitment to the popularization of astronomy. After obtaining her M Sc degree in Physics from Bangalore University and Ph D from the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, Bangalore, she pursued research in stellar astrophysics. In 1994, she joined the Jawaharlal Nehru Planetarium, Bangalore, and retired from service as its director in 2017. She made major contributions to astronomy education and public outreach through innovative programmes, exhibitions, workshops and observational activities, bringing astronomy within the reach of students and the wider public.  Dr Shylaja has also made significant contributions to the study of the history of Indian astronomy, investigating astronomical references in ancient manuscripts, inscriptions, temple architecture and historical instruments. Her publications on subjects ranging from historical observations of supernovae and the identification of stars in Indian astronomical catalogues to traditional methods of eclipse computation reflect the breadth of her scholarship.  Apart from her research work in Astronomy and Astrophysics, especially on Wolf-Rayet binary stars and comets, Dr Shylaja has authored and edited numerous books and contributed very extensively to popular astronomy literature in both English and Kannada. Khagola Darshana, the encyclopaedical Kannada work co-edited by her was reviewed in this blog in August 2023 (see here). Through her sustained work as a scientist, educator, communicator and historian of astronomy, Dr Shylaja has helped build a meaningful bridge between contemporary astrophysics, India's astronomical heritage and the public understanding of science.

The Journey

The eclipse of August 2026 was much publicized for the shadow running through Iceland. It provided a very interesting track almost from North - South, covering Iceland and northern Spain. Prof Prasad made an excellent analysis of the potential spots for successful expeditions, giving full marks to Spain.  He had favored Leon; it is sad that he could not join us. Though Iceland was not a favorable choice, people had booked their spots almost a year in advance. Our family group opted for northern Spain – the hilly country side of the province of Asturias. This is a land of scenic beauty. Mountains, valleys, serene atmosphere where the only sound audible is that of the cow bells from the peaks on the other side.

We landed in Madrid; the train to Oviedo was not sympathetic to the delay in the arrival of our flight. We had to depend on alternative choices and reached Oviedo by cab – from 39 C to 22 C via rains and fog on the mountains. Long tunnels, steep hills and deep valleys alternated the views from the windows. (While returning to Madrid by train we realised that most of the train route was through many dark tunnels, sometimes lasting 12 to 15 minutes each.)

Our plan included visits to various interesting spots in and around Oviedo, before and after the eclipse (becomes another long write up) – the stalagmite caves, cathedral beach, foot prints of dinosaurs, cheese making in caves, the Roman bath at Gijon….…….and the awesome bufones (blowholes).

Path of eclipse over Spain

Change of Location

We had chosen a country side ‘home’ in a small village called Perlunes inside the National Park for the day of the eclipse, but the weather prediction forced us to change the decision. On the day of the eclipse, we drove to the plains. León was 2 hours away; we reached by noon. The temperature was soaring at 39. We temporarily escaped from the heat by getting into a beautiful museum on the famous architect Gaudi.

ESA and the local administration had made elaborate arrangements for day-long activity-based shows in the football stadium and the adjoining parking place. We set out at 7 pm, sweating through our walk for about 15 minutes; almost all shops had put a tag on their door ‘eclipse goggles sold out’. We were already ‘armed’ with several eclipse goggles, two cameras and their stands and water.

People, mostly families, had already lined up and the volunteers ensured a smooth entry; they were counting the number of people (the next day news report put the turnout at 40,000) and offered free eclipse goggles to all. There was a large screen showing the Sun in all its glory. People were seated in the shade – they were giving instructions on the use of eclipse goggles and explaining the basics of eclipses as I could gather from the visuals. Families with small children had stretched out their mats; kids happily played around.

The Anticipation

By 7:30 pm a small subsection of the crowd, which included us, drifted to the parking place. We set up our camera stands and the cameras - protected with shields. There was a big applause at the first contact, which was very clear on the large screen. The Sun was quite low, about 10 degrees from the horizon, no strain on the neck. Children projected the pinhole images on their own body. Many continued relishing the stock of eatables. It looked rather like a picnic spot.

Before the eclipse 

Partial phase

As the Moon progressed, we clicked some stages of the partial eclipse. We could see three sunspots very clearly – one as a large group. The crescent started thinning as we watched through the goggles.

Just before the second contact

8:23 pm. There was an eerie silence; everyone was quiet. There was no commentary either.

Totality!

Then, plop! the diamond ring showed up. What an applause! No cricketer or footballer would have earned this from all the spectators. 

The children looked at the black Sun with awe; they forgot the ice cream cone in their hand. I could not understand their exclamations in Spanish.

Just after the second contact

Just before the third contact; notice the pink dots on the edge

The corona was quite bright; we could see the streamers radiating out. Three red tints showed up along the edge. One was a fairly large prominence easily recognisable with the naked eye. The sky had become dark but just enough for Venus to show up. The conical stretch of the darkness revealed bluish tint along the horizon all around except near the Sun. Ten degrees was a very comfortable view.

We had set one camera for video capture and the other one changed hand quickly for still pictures. Each one wanted to shoot. (I tried video with my mobile and wasted 10 seconds). The western edge of the black Sun briefly showed a couple of more pink dots. Even as I tried to attract others to it, Lo! The second diamond ring! And a second ‘wow’! From every spectator.

The second diamond ring

Unlike the first diamond ring, this one was a success for all cameras. The first diamond ring was missed by many cameras. In our camera, removing the filter was delayed by just a second and so it was not recorded in the video. Putting the filter back at the end also was delayed by a second and the video ended with a blast of light.

A view of the landscape during totality from the mobile camera

I was waiting to ‘feel’ the shadow bands. But in vain. They were unmistakable in Raichur (1980) and in Neem ka Thana (1994). But not very striking either in Palangkaraya (2016) or Kruger National Park (2002) – perhaps because it was partly cloudy. Now I feel that the altitude of the sun matters.

On earlier occasions of totality, the behavior of birds and animals was strikingly different, mainly with the mistaken identity of sunset. Birds returning to nest at noon (in 1980 in Raichur), a peacock dosing off at Sanchi (in 2009) and the like. In the Kruger National Park, a nocturnal animal resembling monitor (uda) showed up. Bats had ventured out. Monkeys and even elephants assumed the sleeping postures. Birds returning to nests is a general pattern. But here in León there were not many birds. The dogs that accompanied the families were too docile and probably had lost their natural instinct to react.

After totality

As the partial eclipse continued, there were exchanges of greetings – on a successful mission. Many people had come down from the mountains as we did. Some enthusiasts had come from Belgium, Netherlands and UK, driving all the way. Plans for the next total eclipse, again in Spain, next year, on 2nd August*, started taking shape. 2027 will see the shadow cross Morocco, Egypt and the southern tip of Spain. The hotels in Luxor are already booked; the tickets for the cruise in to the shadow are already sold out (10,000 $).

The End – no, not yet

Half way through the partial eclipse, people started walking out. The temperature had dropped to 31 C. Anticipating the flood (of people) the traffic ‘control’ had blocked the entry of vehicles. Restaurants made a big business with the eclipsed Sun shown live on their TV.

People saved their goggles for next year.

You see it once, then you are hooked. You want to see it again and again. That is total eclipse!

We drove back to the mountains to see the other natural wonders of Asturia. Another quiet village – Parres – the sea was visible through the windows. The house had no house number, no street number; we were led there by GPS. The foot prints of dinosaurs, the serene beach with relatively quiet waves and the roaring blow holes at Bufones de Pría waited for us.

[* This will be the subject of a separate blog article to appear soon]