Rocky Ruins of Petra in Jordan

One of the Seven Wonders of the World

Travelogue 36

Petra is half-built, half-carved into the rock, and is surrounded by mountains riddled with passages and gorges. It is one of the world's most famous archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.

A famous archaeological site in Jordan's southwestern desert dating to around 300 BC, Petra was the capital of the Nabatean Kingdom. Accessed via a long narrow canyon, it contains tombs and temples carved into pink sandstone cliffs. It is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, and the country’s most famous tourist attraction.  In this travelogue, I recount with mixed feelings my experience of having visited it on an oppressively hot and sunny day in May 2018.  

Prelude

In a previous blog article (see here), I had narrated how I had completed a sweep of all seven manmade modern Wonders of the World, beginning with the Taj Mahal as far back as 1963, and ending with Chichen Itza in April this year, giving brief descriptions of each.  I had also indicated that they would each be supported by more detailed articles in later blogs. As it so happens, I have already posted such descriptive articles in respect of the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China earlier (see here, and here).  My most recent article (see here) relates to another of the seven wonders, the great Inca citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru. In the present travelogue, I address myself to the rocky ruins of Petra in Jordan, which I visited on 10 May 2018 as part of my tour of Israel and neighboring Jordan.

Petra, known as the “Rose City” for its pink-hued sandstone cliffs, is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world. Located in southern Jordan (see map below), Petra is famed for its rock-cut architecture, rich history, and stunning landscapes. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985 (see inscription below), Petra attracts tourists from around the world eager to experience its ancient allure. This article provides a peep into Petra’s history, geography, and tourist insights, along with practical travel tips.

History

Petra was originally established around the 4th century BCE by the Nabataeans, a group of Arab traders who flourished in this region due to their strategic location on important trade routes between Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean. The Nabataeans built Petra as their capital, excelling in architecture, water management, and commerce. At its height, Petra was a vibrant hub for trade, housing thousands of residents and visitors. The city thrived until the 4th century CE, when changes in trade routes and a series of earthquakes led to its decline. For centuries, Petra was largely forgotten by the outside world until Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt rediscovered it in 1812. Since then, Petra has fascinated archaeologists, historians, and travelers alike.

Geography

Petra (see the detailed representation below) is located in the Ma’an Governorate in southern Jordan, nestled in a basin among towering sandstone mountains. Its geographical position provided natural protection, and its impressive rock formations allowed the Nabataeans to carve stunning structures directly into the cliffs. The landscape around Petra is rugged and dramatic, featuring narrow gorges, deep valleys, and vibrant red-hued rock. The Siq, a narrow canyon that serves as the main entrance to Petra, is one of the most famous natural features in the world.

Petra site map (left) with legend at upper right.

(A part of it from the entry gate is shown enlarged in lower right)

Tourist Information

Petra is open to visitors year-round, though the best times to visit are during the cooler months between March and May and September to November. The Jordanian government operates Petra as a protected site, and the hefty entrance fees (about INR 12,000) are a source of revenue, at least part of it being used for preservation efforts.

• Entrance Fees: Prices vary based on whether you are a day visitor or staying in Jordan overnight. Day visitors pay around 90 JD, while overnight guests pay approximately 50 JD for a single day.
• Visiting Hours: Petra opens at 6 am during the summer and 6:30 am in winter. It closes around sunset.

How to Reach Petra

Amman, Jordan’s capital, is approximately 235 kilometers north of Petra. There are several ways to travel from Jordan’s capital Amman to Petra:

1. By Car: Renting a car is one of the most convenient options. The drive from Amman to Petra takes about 3 hours via the Desert Highway (Highway 15).

2. By Bus: The JETT Bus Company offers a daily tourist bus from Amman to Petra, departing in the early morning and returning in the late afternoon. It’s a reliable and economical option.

3. By Taxi: Taxis can be hired from Amman, although it may be more expensive than other options. Agree on a fare beforehand if you choose this route.

4. Private Tours: Many tour companies in Amman offer guided day trips to Petra, which include transport, entry fees, and a guide.

Travel Tips

• Wear Comfortable Shoes: Petra covers a vast area, and visitors typically walk long distances while exploring the site.
• Bring Water and Snacks: Staying hydrated is crucial, especially in the warmer months. There are limited refreshment areas inside Petra.
• Consider Hiring a Guide: To get the most out of your visit, hire a licensed guide to explain the historical and architectural significance of each site.
• Visit Early: Arriving early allows you to explore Petra before the crowds and enjoy cooler temperatures.
• Petra by Night: This event, held on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, lets visitors experience the Treasury illuminated by thousands of candles—a magical and unique experience (see picture below).

Exploring Petra’s Major Features

The Siq: This 1.2-kilometer gorge is the main entrance to Petra, with walls towering up to 80 meters (see picture below). Walking through the Siq is a thrilling experience, as the canyon twists and narrows before dramatically revealing Petra’s most famous structure, Al-Khazanah, the Treasury.

The Treasury (Al-Khazanah): Perhaps the most iconic symbols of Petra, the Treasury’s intricate façade is carved into the sandstone cliff. This 40-meter-high structure likely served as a royal tomb, though its exact purpose remains a mystery. Al-Khazanah is particularly stunning in the morning light. Below is a view of it in rather hazy light, partly showing up at the end of a long and expectant walk on the Siq.

The Street of Facades: This area (number 5 in the Petra map legend) features rows of tombs and other structures carved into the cliff walls. These facades (see picture below) represent some of Petra’s best-preserved rock-cut architecture.

The Royal Tombs: Located on the eastern cliff (see picture below), the Royal Tombs (7 to 12 in the Petra map legend) are an impressive series of elaborate tombs believed to be reserved for Petra’s elite. Each tomb has its unique architectural style and carvings.

The Great Temple: Thought to be a grand structure for public use, the Great Temple complex (see picture below) includes courtyards, a colonnaded street, and theater-like seating. It lies south of the Colonnaded Street (number 15 in the Petra map legend).

The Monastery (Ad Deir): The Monastery, located atop a steep ascent of around 800 steps (see picture below and number 24 in the Petra map legend), is one of the largest monuments in Petra. Its remote location and stunning views over the valley make it a must-see, especially during sunset. One of the most iconic monuments in the Petra Archaeological Park, Ad Deir is the second most commonly visited monument in Petra, after the Al-Khazanah or Treasury.

The High Place of Sacrifice: Situated on a mountaintop, the High Place of Sacrifice (see picture below and number 26 in the Petra map legend) offers panoramic views of Petra and the surrounding landscape. The trail leading up to it is challenging but rewarding.

Other Features

• Petra Archaeological Museum: This impressive museum (see picture below), located near the visitors’ center, showcases artifacts from Petra and provides insights into the history and culture of the Nabataeans.

• Local Souvenirs: The markets around Petra offer traditional Jordanian handicrafts, jewelry, and souvenirs. Buying locally supports the community and helps preserve the craft traditions of the Bedouins who have lived in Petra for generations.

My Day at Petra

Let me now recount my experience of visiting Petra under far from memorable circumstances as part of a poorly managed tour. The visit had been scheduled for the last day of a ten-day combined trip to Israel and Jordan in which I was one of about thirty tourists from Bangalore, India. The fact that we were to see one of the seven wonders of the world had gone largely unappreciated. On the penultimate day, we had a raucous party at a desert resort in Wadi Rum in southern Jordan lasting well into the night. So, when we left for Petra the following morning on a northward journey of over two hours, we were already late on what was expected to be a hot day.

After about an hour of the bus journey through the desert, our tour guide learnt that one of the young lady tourists had ‘lost’ her apparently expensive diamond (!) ring back at the desert resort, and had no alternative but to back track when he was told that the ring had indeed been found, waiting to be claimed by the owner! This meant an additional two hours on the desert journey, wholly avoidable but for the carelessness of one individual who, adding insult to injury, was also least contrite.

When we arrived at the impressive visitors’ center at Petra (see picture below), it was close to noon time, and the Sun was beating down hard on an oppressively hot day.

After passing through the entrance, we had to trek some considerable distance in harsh open desolate terrain (see picture below) before reaching the comparative comfort of the nearly 2 km walk through the narrow pathway called the Siq lying between towering cliffs, with little respite from the heat of the Sun blazing overhead. One could mitigate this by hiring a horse drawn vehicle, but at a substantial additional cost, and only for part of the journey.

The journey through the Siq was exciting, with plenty of photo opportunities to capture the towering natural formations in exciting colors.  Below are just two of numerous such views I captured:

It was quite some time before we could get a face-on glimpse of the iconic Al-Khazanah at the end of the gorge (see a previous picture).  Below is a memorable picture of me in front of the monument, recording my fortuitous presence before a pair of camels appropriate to the occasion:

The Al-Khazanah is a great monolithic structure carved into a huge rock formation (see the wide angle picture below).

Nearby (see picture below) is a bilingual plaque describing the monument.

The unbearably hot weather meant that most of us were exhausted by the time we reached the prime target of our visit, the Al-Khazana, with little energy left to go all the way up to the next one, the Monastery that was quite some distance further away. The best we could do was to explore the immediate neighborhood of the Al-Khazana.  Below is one such sight.

Those of us who felt strong enough to walk up to the Monastery were thwarted from trying when our guide told us that we had a really long journey ahead of us, all the way to Amman, the Capital of Jordan.  Thus, we had to be content with only a part of the wonder that was Petra, all because of one person’s callous carelessness in the morning.

Conclusion

Petra is a striking blend of nature’s handiwork and human ingenuity. From its rich history to its stunning rock-carved architecture, Petra offers visitors a chance to experience a world that feels both lost and timeless. Whether you’re hiking to the Monastery, marveling at the Treasury, or simply taking in the landscape, Petra is an unforgettable journey into the past. By planning ahead and respecting the site’s historical significance, you can make the most of your visit to this extraordinary destination.

Tailpiece

What makes the two principal monuments at Petra standout is the fact that they are carved into gigantic monolithic blocks of stone. When I reflected on this, my memory went back to something similar and even more awe-inspiring (see picture below) at the Ellora Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Aurangabad district of Maharashtra state, India.   The Kailasanatha temple, part of which is seen in the picture, is the largest of the megalithic rock-cut temples at the Ellora Caves and considered one of the most remarkable cave temples in the world because of its size, architecture and intricate carvings in traditional style. Sadly, this stupendous monument didn’t even make it to the pre-final 21-item list of the wonders of the world. One wonders whether bias or neglect had any say in the matter.

The Inca Citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru

One of the Seven Wonders of the World

Travelogue 35

 

The ancient ruins of Machu Picchu serve as a reminder that even the greatest civilizations will eventually fade away. Let us cherish the present while it lasts.

 Turn Right at Machu Picchu

Mark Adams

 

[Panoramic view of Machu Picchu – Courtesy Wikipedia]

 

The remote ancient Incan citadel of Machu Picchu in Peru, South America, is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, and the country’s most famous tourist attraction.  In this travelogue, I relive my memorable experience of having visited it in Jan 2019 as part of my tour of the continent.  

 

Prelude

In a previous blog article (see here), I had narrated how I had completed a sweep of all seven manmade modern Wonders of the World, beginning with the Taj Mahal as far back as 1963, and ending with Chichen Itza in April this year, giving brief descriptions of each.  I had also indicated that they would each be supported by more detailed articles in subsequent blogs. As it so happens, I have already posted such descriptive articles in respect of the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China earlier (see here, and here).  I now address myself to Machu Picchu in Peru in this travelogue.

Location

Situated at an altitude of about 2,500 meters in a place of great natural beauty, in the middle of a tropical mountain forest, the sanctuary of Machu Picchu is apparently the most amazing architectural achievement of the Inca Empire at its peak.  It is about 80 km northwest of the ancient city of Cusco (see map below), and sits on a ridge between the Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu mountains, overlooking the Urubamba River valley.  

Geography 

Machu Picchu’s location is both spectacular and strategic. Nestled high in the Andes, it is surrounded by lush, green peaks, with steep cliffs dropping into the river below. The region is part of the Amazon rainforest, which gives the site a tropical yet temperate climate. The elevation creates a microclimate where mornings are often misty, with clouds rising from the valley and breaking to reveal the grandeur of the site.

History

Machu Picchu was built in the 15th century, around 1450, during the reign of the Inca emperor Pachacuti. It is believed to have served as a royal estate or a religious site for Inca nobility. The site remained hidden from the outside world until American historian and explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered it in 1911. Since then, Machu Picchu has become a symbol of Incan civilization and an important reminder of pre-Columbian history. The citadel was never discovered by the Spanish conquistadors, which is why it is so well-preserved today.

Importance

Machu Picchu is not only one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world, but also a UNESCO World Heritage site, designated in 1983. It is considered one of the New Seven Wonders of the World due to its architectural significance and beauty. The site is an excellent example of the Inca’s sophisticated engineering, agriculture, and spiritual connection to nature. Terraces, irrigation systems, and stone structures demonstrate their ability to adapt to difficult terrains. Machu Picchu continues to attract scholars and researchers interested in Incan history, culture, and astronomy.

Its walls, terraces and gigantic ramps give the impression of having been sculpted into the rock escarpments, as if they were part of it. The natural setting, located on the eastern slope of the Andes, is part of the upper Amazon basin, which has a very varied flora and fauna. Most of the outlying buildings have been reconstructed in order to give visitors a better idea of how they originally appeared. By 1976, 30 percent of Machu Picchu had been restored and the restoration work still continues. The Incas built the establishment around 1450 AD but abandoned it a century later, at the time of the Spanish conquest. 

Tourist Information

Visiting Machu Picchu is a must-do item for travelers worldwide. The site is open year-round, though the best time to visit is during the dry season from May to September. The rainy season from November to March can make the trails slippery, but the crowds are thinner during this time. A typical visit allows tourists to explore the main parts of the citadel, including the Temple of the Sun, the Intihuatana stone (a ritual stone associated with astronomical observations), and the Room of the Three Windows. There are also more strenuous hikes, such as climbing Huayna Picchu or the Machu Picchu Mountain for panoramic views.

How to Reach Machu Picchu from Cusco 

There are several ways to reach Machu Picchu from Cusco, which itself can be reached easily by air service from the Peruvian capital Lima.

1. Train: This is the most popular and comfortable option. The slow train journey takes about 3 to 4 hours from the town of Poroy (about 20 minutes from Cusco) or Ollantaytambo (a little further from Cusco). Trains, such as the Vistadome and the more luxurious Hiram Bingham service, offer stunning views of the Andean landscape, following the Urubamba River to Aguas Calientes, the town nearest to Machu Picchu.

2. Hiking (Inca Trail): For adventure seekers, hiking the Inca Trail is an unforgettable experience. This typically 4-day trek takes travelers through beautiful mountain passes, cloud forests, and Inca ruins, culminating with a sunrise arrival at Machu Picchu’s Sun Gate. There are also shorter versions of the Inca Trail (2 days), but all require advance booking as permits are limited. A part of the Inca trail is captured in the picture below:

3. Bus from Aguas Calientes: Once in the town of Aguas Calientes, visitors must take a 25-minute bus ride up a steep mountain road (see picture below) to reach the entrance of Machu Picchu. Alternatively, a strenuous hike from Aguas Calientes to the site is possible, but it takes about 1 to 2 hours.

 Travel Tips

• Advance Booking: Tickets to Machu Picchu, especially for the Inca Trail and climbs up Huayna Picchu, sell out quickly. It’s recommended to book months in advance, especially during peak season (June to August).
• Altitude Acclimatization: Cusco and Machu Picchu are at high altitudes, which can cause altitude sickness. It's worthwhile to spend a day or two acclimatizing in Cusco before heading to Machu Picchu. Staying hydrated and avoiding heavy meals may help.
• What to Bring: Carry light clothing, sunscreen, insect repellent, and plenty of water. Layers are important as mornings can be cold and misty, but the weather warms up quickly.
• Respect the Site: Machu Picchu is a protected site, and strict rules are in place to preserve its integrity, though not as strictly enforced. Stay on marked paths, and avoid climbing or touching the ancient structures.
• Best Time to Visit: Early morning visits offer quieter, more intimate experiences and are less likely to coincide with crowds. Alternatively, late afternoon also offers fewer tourists and softer lighting for photography.

The Journey

I was part of a tourist group of about thirty originating from Bangalore on a sightseeing trip to several south American countries including Peru. We had flown to Cusco from the Peruvian capital of Lima, with a whole day set apart for the visit to Machu Picchu. Though only about 80 km from the ancient Peruvian city of Cusco, it was a long winding journey to Machu Picchu in the Peruvian Andes, first by train up to Aguas Calientes from where another segment of the journey is performed by smaller trams, and then by road right up to the base camp.  

Here are two spectacular views through the glass covered roof and sides of the tourist train which we boarded at Ollantaytambo station (see below).

Below is a picture of me basking in the bright sun and lush greenery after alighting at Aguas Calientes for a short wait before journeying on to Machu Picchu.

Arrival

The picture below shows the main entrance to Machu Picchu and the arrival spot for buses from Aguas Calientes.  Those without advance booking can also purchase tickets here if available on demand. 

From here on, it is a short but steep climb (see picture below) to reach the heights of Machu Picchu for a wonderful panoramic view as captured in the lead picture to this article.

Below are two photographs of me in obvious triumph and delight at reaching this picturesque spot after a strenuous climb up a narrow and steep rock-hewn pathway. Paradoxically, the second one was taken in bright sunshine and at a slightly different angle shortly after a light cloudburst; hence the umbrella still in my hand.

Here is another view in bright light, at yet another angle:

Exploring Machu Picchu

Below is a map of Machu Picchu showing some of the main attractions for a visitor, with their locations with respect to each other easy to make out:

What followed was over two hours of walking through the various parts of the site, exploring the intricate web of buildings and surrounding terrain. Below is a view of parts of the labyrinthine structures within the Machu Picchu complex: 

An eye-catching feature of Machu Picchu is the steep terraces used for farming activities. Here is a view I captured from a distance:

Incan Astronomy

Machu Picchu offers evidence that the Incans had made significant progress in observational astronomy. Its design reflects a sophisticated knowledge of celestial events.

Sun Worship and Alignment: The Incas were Sun worshippers, and many structures at Machu Picchu are aligned with astronomical phenomena, particularly the movements of the Sun. For example, the Intihuatana Stone (see picture below), often called the ‘Hitching Post of the Sun’, is believed to have served as a solar clock or calendar. During the solstices, the stone’s alignment tracks the Sun's position, and it is thought that the Incas used it to mark important agricultural dates.

Temple of the Sun: Another significant structure is the Temple of the Sun (including the semicircular structure in the picture below), where the windows are aligned to capture the sunlight during the solstices. On the June solstice, sunlight passes through one of the temple's windows and illuminates a specific stone inside, signifying the change in season. This demonstrates the Incas’ ability to incorporate astronomy into their architecture.

The sculpture (see picture below)  projecting from the rock bottom of the Sun temple is interpreted as "Water mirrors for observing the sky".

The Incas used Machu Picchu’s high-altitude location to observe the stars and other celestial bodies. They carefully studied the movements of the planets, stars, and the Milky Way, which they considered sacred. The constellation of the Southern Cross, for example, played a key role in their perception of cosmology.

Machu Picchu’s design is a testament to the Inca's considerable astronomical knowledge, blending their religious beliefs with the practicalities of agriculture and timekeeping through the observation of celestial events.

Temple of the three windows: This is one of the most iconic structures at Machu Picchu. It gets its name from the three large windows that overlook the eastern section of the site (see picture below). These windows provide a stunning view of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Here is my closeup picture of the middle window and the view through it:

The temple is believed to have had religious or ceremonial importance, possibly related to the Incan Sun God, Inti. The windows may have symbolized important aspects of Incan cosmology, such as the three realms of existence: the sky, the earth, and the underworld.

The construction of the temple, like much of Machu Picchu, demonstrates the incredible precision of Incan masonry, with massive stones carefully cut and fitted together without mortar. The structure highlights the architectural and astronomical knowledge of the Incas.

Temple of the Condor: The Temple of the Condor in Machu Picchu (see my picture below) is a breathtaking example of Inca stonemasonry. A natural rock formation began to take shape millions of years ago and the Inca skilfully shaped the rock into the outspread wings of a condor in flight. On the floor of the temple (see the foreground in the picture) is a rock carved in the shape of the condor's head and neck feathers, completing the figure of a three-dimensional bird.

Royal Tomb: This cave-like area (see picture below) of Machu Picchu contains ceremonial niches and an Inca cross carved from one wall and is adjacent to the Temple of the Sun.

Return Journey

The return journey was disrupted by a huge down pour lasting well over an hour and we were stranded close to the railway station (see picture below). It was lucky that this did not happen on the outward journey. But for this, our return journey to Cusco was uneventful.

Conclusion

Machu Picchu is a place that blends nature, history, spiritual connection and civilizational impact, making it one of the most awe-inspiring destinations in the world. Whether through a scenic train journey or a challenging trek, visiting Machu Picchu is a transformative experience for any traveler. The visit to Machu Picchu left a lasting impression on me, next only to the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China, as a truly great wonder of the world, fully deserving the accolade. 

Tailpiece

There were two sisters in our tour group with strong physical similarities and the rest of us started referring to them fondly as Machu and Picchu without their knowledge, their real names almost forgotten. The day before our visit to Machu Picchu, Machu had taken ill and preferred to rest in the hotel, Picchu also staying back to provide comfort and care.  By the time we reached the entrance gate to Machu Picchu, Machu was in no condition to climb up to the site of the ruins, and Picchu too opted to stay back to tend to her sister. So did a few others in the group who were either too tired or not sufficiently motivated to continue on. I had no reason not to, for Machu Picchu was the very raison d'être for my trip to South America.  It is a great pity they had to miss out on what was anticipated to be the pièce de résistance of our entire South American trip.